Pattern Review: Maven Patterns Rochester top

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 I’m always on the look out for woven top patterns that have a couple of interesting details. Something that can be worn with jeans that feels slightly less casual than a boxy top. Far be it from me to diss the boxy top - my cupboard is full of them - but, bless them, they are not for all occasions. 

Frankly, the Rochester  pattern (named for Jane Eyre, surely?) had me at that neckline. I found the narrow elastic casing really appealing, and you may be relieved to hear that it doesn't sit *too* high around the throat, either (never a comfortable feeling).  The elastic casing can be set right at the neckline edge as I have done, or 15mm lower for a spot of added neck frill. I love how the gather cleverly forgoes the need for bust darts and additional closures. But wait, there’s more! The Rochester also has a nifty pleat in the back plus a nice wide curved hem facing. It’s a dress pattern too, with inseam pockets and a waist tie.


Fabric
I chose our washed linen in Slate, which is super soft and has a lovely amount of drape for the swingy hem. Next time, I’m tempted to try one in Liberty, or perhaps some double or triple gauze.

Construction
No dramas here. The pattern instructions are chock-full of extra details, hints and links to tutorials to get the details just right. All the notches match up and the set-in sleeves both went in perfectly first time with no puckers (win!) More on the shoulders later, though…

loving the wide curved faced hem sick
Sizing
Despite all the extra information included in this pattern I found selecting my size slightly confusing.  There is a finished garment size chart but unfortunately the bust measurement (which is all you really need too take into account when fitting this pattern) is taken with the back pleat closed - so that’s roughly 10cm of ease unaccounted for. For the record I chose the sized closest to my bust measurement and it worked out fine. Be aware that the size range is standard: the largest size offered here is an 18 with 42 inch bust and 46 inch hips, although considering that back pleat there is a lot of extra ease included within that range. 

Fit
So. Overall I’m thrilled with the fit - the edge of the shoulder hits right where it should and the extra ease created by the back pleat makes this a comfy but not too puffy shirt. All good! That is until I lift my arms and… cue a whole bunch of excess fabric pooling at my shoulder tips. Waaah! 


Next time I make this, I’ll swap the arm hole and sleeve head with one from another pattern that works well for me to get around this problem. This shape arm block must work well for some people, but not for either Jane or I unfortunately! Perhaps for you it will present no issues… garment drafting is fascinating like that.

you can see some the excess shoulder fabric remains on the left here, post arm-hole surgery
In order to fix this without wasting the linen, I reluctantly removed those pucker-less sleeves and trimmed a crescent-shaped piece from the top of each. Fortunately they went back in without a hitch. Some excess fabric is still there when I lift my arms, but less so and I’m happy to live with it now.


This will be worn to bits. Other than the shoulder drama, this is a really pleasing shirt with beautiful proportions and some really lovely details. Initially I wasn’t sure about the deep high-low hem facing (not really my style) but it’s turned out to be one of my favourite features of this top. Definitely worth the time. It’s a win!

The Maven Rochester pattern is available as downloadable PDF (with copy shop option) from the Maven website here.
Slate washed linen can be found here.

 - Fiona xx

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