THE DRAPERY BLOG

Spanish pattern designer Pauline Alice has recently released several new patterns, and this one, the Diago Top , caught our eye for summer. It's a very simple dolman-sleeved top with a slight high-low hem and stitched down facings. Our new linens came along, and some hot weather, and the deal was sealed. The Diago (available only as downloadable PDF from her website) is designed with beginner sewists in mind. The instructions are not quite as hand-holdy as they could be for absolute beginners but that shouldn't put anyone off, either. This is a lovely pattern with a forgiving fit, nice finishing like the faced hem, and thorough steps like French seams, clipping and understitching. Can anyone tell I was fighting off a cold and had an afternoon nap in this outfit? Sometimes you have to go with messy reality or things will never be blogged. And for a not completely crumpled version, here's Fiona! Fabric hungry? The pattern, in my size (44), calls for 2.1m of 1...

The Kalle pattern by Closet Case has been around for a couple of years now. The dress or shirt has a roomy fit with dropped shoulder and no bust dart, a lined back yoke and dramatic curved hem. It's lovely, and we've been meaning to make it up for ages. By the way, the pattern name is pronounced 'Kal - ee' (rhymes with Sally). I checked that with pattern designer Heather Lou when it was first released. It was driving me crazy not knowing how to say it, either aloud or in my head! You can imagine how I felt reading the first Harry Potter book many years ago. Her-mee-ohn? Herm-yon? Hermi-oh-nee? The Kalle has a fair few minor variations that can be mixed and matched as you please: This Kalle, made in our heavyweight natural Lithuanian linen , is a shop sample. You can swing by and have a look and even try it on if you like. It's a straight size 12, dress length, in 'popover' style with box pleat and band collar. Sewing went really smoothly a...

  I’m always on the look out for woven top patterns that have a couple of interesting details. Something that can be worn with jeans that feels slightly less casual than a boxy top. Far be it from me to diss the boxy top - my cupboard is full of them - but, bless them, they are not for all occasions.  Frankly, the Rochester  pattern (named for Jane Eyre, surely?) had me at that neckline. I found the narrow elastic casing really appealing, and you may be relieved to hear that it doesn't sit *too* high around the throat, either (never a comfortable feeling).  The elastic casing can be set right at the neckline edge as I have done, or 15mm lower for a spot of added neck frill. I love how the gather cleverly forgoes the need for bust darts and additional closures. But wait, there’s more! The Rochester also has a nifty pleat in the back plus a nice wide curved hem facing. It’s a dress pattern too, with inseam pockets and a waist tie. Fabr...

Sometimes a sewing pattern seduces you, despite it being outside your usual comfort zone. The new Wilder Gown by California-based Friday Pattern Company lured me in with its siren song. The magic of sewing would instantly transform me into the amazing model in the photographs, right? I mean, swoon. Just add a floral headpiece. Back in the real world... I made a sketch of the Wilder on the 'My Body Model' fashion sketching croquis, based on my own dimensions. (I highly recommend this as a sewing project tool.) Hey, this could work! I bought the pattern (pdf only at present) and had it printed in large format at Aish on Glen Osmond Road. I have a 'fancy' evening version of the Wilder in mind for later on, but as a first run I thought I'd try it in our favourite all-occasions standby, Lithuanian Natural Linen . The earthiness of this fabric helps dress the design down a bit. With all that volume and gathering, I want this dress to feel either super-relaxed or...

The new pattern range by Swedish company The Assembly Line has been selling like hotcakes, and we've been hearing many positive reports back from customers about their garments. We like to be able to advise our customers from our own experience and The Hoodie Dress looked more and more appealing as the wintry weather set in here in Adelaide. The pattern says: "The Hoodie Dress slips over the head, there are elastic cuffs at sleeve and skirt bottom. It features large front pockets and a hood. If you prefer the dress without the hood, this pattern includes a pattern part for neck facing to be used instead." To help choose your size, the pattern includes body measurements plus comprehensive finished garment measurements. This showed that there's a decent amount of ease built in, but I made a muslin of the bodice and sleeves to check whether I should do a full bust adjustment (which I often require). The deeply angled 'French' style bust darts actually prov...

Jo of Frankie and Ray had been teasing the release of the Breezeway Top pattern on her Instagram for a while and we thought it looked like another winner. So I jumped in and made one as soon as the patterns arrived. It doesn't disappoint! With a generous, roomy fit, gentle v-neck and optional back pleat and sleeve cuffs, the Breezeway Top is quick and simple to sew, with just enough detail to make it 'polished casual'. I used our White Lithuanian Linen - this one is unwashed which lowers the price (and the original fabric's environmental impact through energy and water use). I even skipped pre-washing (gasp!) because I knew the Breezeway Top was generously sized. You can see the fabric below with its flat finish and clearly separate fibres. In this photo I'm stitching over the underarm point twice to reinforce it. We find these 'unwashed' linens tend to be overlooked in favour of the - admittedly prettier - gently rumpled pre-washed ones. I...

We are feeling the love for all things Papercut lately. Their last pattern release was a cracker (the Kochi Kimono has become a firm favourite in these parts), and now their new collection Geo has made its way into our hot little hands. There is much to love in Geo (check our online shop under Papercut for others, plus Jane is in the middle of sewing up another of the Geo patterns, so watch this space)… but for me, the Pinnacle Top immediately called my name. Pinnacle is a boxy top that can be made in a few different ways: either as a knit sweater or from woven fabric, each variation featuring those fantastic geometric seam lines down centre front. I’ve been on the look out for a loose, long sleeved woven top to wear with jeans for a while now, so Variation 2 with the higher neckline and pretty tie-back elbowed its way right to the top of my sewing queue. Fabric choice  This Pinnacle Top is made from “11pm”, a 100% washed linen in deepest navy and one of o...