Showing posts from August, 2014

Tova times two

There's not much that can be said that hasn't already been said about the Wiksten Tova . This highly versatile pattern has been doing the rounds of the sewing blogosphere for a goodly number of years now. For good reason, we say! Only available now as a downloadable PDF, this pattern is well worth the effort of an hour or so spent cutting and sticking paper together. There's no option for 'copy shop printing' in this download, so scissors and tape it must be. I first made the shirt length in some of our Indigo Hemp/Organic Cotton (currently out of stock but winging its way to us - it should be back in a week or so). That one fast became an easy-to-reach-for wardrobe staple. So, hot on its heels, I tried out the tunic length in our navy Japanese linen/cotton blend big gingham. The linen/cotton has a lovely weight and a lovely slightly crinkly texture, making it perfect Autumn/Spring frock fare. For both versions, I omitted the collar band and bias-bound th

Deer and Doe Datura in Liberty and yarn-dyed cotton/linen

 We continue our love affair with Deer and Doe patterns here at The Drapery. This Datura was planned a couple of weeks ago and the version in voile from the previous posts was the 'wearable muslin' before making this. After much deliberation between View A and B, the collared version won out.    The front panel is cut from just a (metric) fat quarter of Liberty Tana Lawn, in this dreamy print called 'Sandy Ray' that makes us sigh every time we look at it. The rest is in the lovely 'Otter' cotton/linen crossweave.  To complement the delicate and ethereal nature of the print, this blouse has seven tiny pearly buttons (non-functional, sewn through all layers) at the back. Of course, just as I go to post this we have sold out of the Datura pattern, but we will most certainly be re-stocking! The fabrics are both still available. - Jane & Fiona xx

Deer and Doe Datura Blouse tutorial - Part 3 - Attaching Bodice and Finishing.

In Part 1 we took you through the construction of the bodice. In Part 2 we showed you how to bind the neckline. And now, to complete your garment! Part 3 - Attaching Bodice and Finishing Take your front bodice piece and sew the bust darts: match the lines, pin and sew. On a fine fabric like this we recommend you don't do any reverse stitching at the 'pointy end' to secure your thread. Rather, leave long thread tails...  ... and tie those thread tails in a secure double knot, then trim the ends. Press the dart fabric towards the bottom of the garment.  As instructed, take each back bodice piece and fold the middle edge in twice along the marked lines, and stitch down to create each side of your button placket.  Press, then overlap the back pieces so one placket sits directly on top of the other.  Pin and then baste the plackets together with a long machine stitch, so for now they act as a single back bodice piece.  Take your front bodice piece and pi

Deer and Doe Datura Blouse tutorial - Part 2 - Binding the Neckline

In our first post , we showed you how to construct the lined yoke. Now for the next step! Part 2: Making and Applying the Neckline Binding. As mentioned in the first post, you will need 7 - 8 lengths of the 1.5" wide bias at the length of the template from the pattern. If you can cut your bias in longer continuous strips, this is preferable, with less likelihood of a join ending up in a really visible spot. The voile seemed a bit soft and fine on its own for the neckline binding, so I backed it with fine woven cotton fusible interfacing. The interfacing was also cut on the bias to help it curve around the neckline. You'll need a length equivalent to 3 pieces (joined) of the template bias for the neckline.     The pattern provides a template for a cardboard bias tape folder, which is charming (especially when labelled 'machine a biais', oh French language!). Slightly less charming but probably easier is the Clover bias tape maker - t

Deer and Doe Datura Blouse tutorial - Part 1 - Construction of the Lined Yoke

The beautiful Datura sleeveless blouse pattern by French company Deer and Doe is marked for 'Advanced' level sewers. But don't be afraid! We've put together a photographic tutorial to help. In this tutorial, over three posts, we show the construction of View A (to be used in conjunction with the instruction booklet) . Tutorial Part 1: Construction of the Lined Yoke . Select your fabric/s and pre-wash. Choose your size, trace off your pattern and cut out your fabric pieces according to the layouts in the instructions. NB: for View A with the bound neckline, you will need 7 - 8 lengths of the bias tape, using the template provided in the pattern. If you are able to cut your bias in longer continuous lengths, this will be preferable since you will end up with less joins. Choose a stable woven fabric with some softness and drape. The yoke is fully lined. If you are using a patterned fabric for the outer yoke it can be a good idea to use something plain for