THE DRAPERY BLOG

Spanish pattern designer Pauline Alice has recently released several new patterns, and this one, the Diago Top , caught our eye for summer. It's a very simple dolman-sleeved top with a slight high-low hem and stitched down facings. Our new linens came along, and some hot weather, and the deal was sealed. The Diago (available only as downloadable PDF from her website) is designed with beginner sewists in mind. The instructions are not quite as hand-holdy as they could be for absolute beginners but that shouldn't put anyone off, either. This is a lovely pattern with a forgiving fit, nice finishing like the faced hem, and thorough steps like French seams, clipping and understitching. Can anyone tell I was fighting off a cold and had an afternoon nap in this outfit? Sometimes you have to go with messy reality or things will never be blogged. And for a not completely crumpled version, here's Fiona! Fabric hungry? The pattern, in my size (44), calls for 2.1m of 1...

  I’m always on the look out for woven top patterns that have a couple of interesting details. Something that can be worn with jeans that feels slightly less casual than a boxy top. Far be it from me to diss the boxy top - my cupboard is full of them - but, bless them, they are not for all occasions.  Frankly, the Rochester  pattern (named for Jane Eyre, surely?) had me at that neckline. I found the narrow elastic casing really appealing, and you may be relieved to hear that it doesn't sit *too* high around the throat, either (never a comfortable feeling).  The elastic casing can be set right at the neckline edge as I have done, or 15mm lower for a spot of added neck frill. I love how the gather cleverly forgoes the need for bust darts and additional closures. But wait, there’s more! The Rochester also has a nifty pleat in the back plus a nice wide curved hem facing. It’s a dress pattern too, with inseam pockets and a waist tie. Fabr...

Many sewists find themselves on the hunt for a simple-but-stylish top pattern for woven fabrics. One you could potentially repeat in a number of different fabrics, maybe use as a basis for long and short sleeved versions; a go-to, pull-on woven top.  I have a couple of these in my repertoire: the Roberts Collection top by Marilla Walker and the Breezeway Top by Frankie and Ray; excellent everyday tops. The Roberts Top now offers a free downloadable sleeve option and the Breezeway can use the sleeve from the Frankie and Ray Friday Shirt so they both have year-round potential. But how about something a little more tailored and dressy? The Assembly Line Puff Shirt has been a popular pattern and has a charming mix of simplicity, elegance and a little bit of fun with those dramatic gathered bell sleeves. I was particularly inspired after seeing versions made by our delightful customer and blogger Pips (she's made quite a few of the Assembly Line patterns and has a fabulous person...

Jo of Frankie and Ray had been teasing the release of the Breezeway Top pattern on her Instagram for a while and we thought it looked like another winner. So I jumped in and made one as soon as the patterns arrived. It doesn't disappoint! With a generous, roomy fit, gentle v-neck and optional back pleat and sleeve cuffs, the Breezeway Top is quick and simple to sew, with just enough detail to make it 'polished casual'. I used our White Lithuanian Linen - this one is unwashed which lowers the price (and the original fabric's environmental impact through energy and water use). I even skipped pre-washing (gasp!) because I knew the Breezeway Top was generously sized. You can see the fabric below with its flat finish and clearly separate fibres. In this photo I'm stitching over the underarm point twice to reinforce it. We find these 'unwashed' linens tend to be overlooked in favour of the - admittedly prettier - gently rumpled pre-washed ones. I...

When Pattern Fantastique released the Calyx pattern late last year, I suspected it would be only a matter of time before one passed through my sewing machine. So tempting were its nice deep hem facing, raglan sleeves and loose, heat-wave friendly cut. Another PF pattern, the Aeolian , has been a firm favourite of mine (ahem, 6 and counting…) and so the Calyx called as an appealing alternative. From the front. Fabric Inspired by Nita Jane (owner of PF) and her talk of a denim Calyx for layering, I chose to make this version in some of our 6oz washed cotton denim. It’s a lightweight fabric that has good drape but is still quite sturdy. Certainly not the floaty tencel I had originally thought I might make this in, but I guess that leaves options for next time! And there will be a next time. When I first saw this pattern I could only imagine it being made up in something super lightweight & very drapery (tencel, washed linen, cupro) because of all the gathering at t...

We are feeling the love for all things Papercut lately. Their last pattern release was a cracker (the Kochi Kimono has become a firm favourite in these parts), and now their new collection Geo has made its way into our hot little hands. There is much to love in Geo (check our online shop under Papercut for others, plus Jane is in the middle of sewing up another of the Geo patterns, so watch this space)… but for me, the Pinnacle Top immediately called my name. Pinnacle is a boxy top that can be made in a few different ways: either as a knit sweater or from woven fabric, each variation featuring those fantastic geometric seam lines down centre front. I’ve been on the look out for a loose, long sleeved woven top to wear with jeans for a while now, so Variation 2 with the higher neckline and pretty tie-back elbowed its way right to the top of my sewing queue. Fabric choice  This Pinnacle Top is made from “11pm”, a 100% washed linen in deepest navy and one of o...

The kimono-inspired jacket trend has been around a few years, and we're the first to admit we are not always first aboard the trend-train. Bt slowly, slowly, these things can sneak up and then lo and behold, there's a kimono-shaped hole in our wardrobes we never noticed before. Papercut Kochi Jacket pattern line drawings Fiona first tried the Kochi Jacket by Papercut Patterns (released June 2017) in a 'wearable muslin' made from a variety of linen and light denim scraps. She decided the shape wasn't working for her and put it aside. (But she's currently working with another kimono-inspired pattern so stay tuned!) Then recently I needed to dress for a Japanese-themed dinner and borrowed Fiona's Kochi. What do you know, I loved it, and immediately wanted one of my own. There are several variations in the Kochi pattern: with or without neck band, lining, patch pockets and tie closure. I made the simplest, most pared-down version which has just four patt...

Are you thinking ‘here we go… yet ANOTHER person rabbiting on about that  camisole  pattern? Yes? If so I  fully  admit to knowing where  you're coming from . The True Bias Ogden Cami must be be one of the most sewn patterns in the indie pattern/Instagram/sewing/blogging world since it was released back in 2016. It’s been almost impossible to scroll through ones Instagram feed without seeing another version of it sewn as is, lengthened into a dress, turned into PJs or otherwise customised. Not being much of a camisole person myself, I guiltily admit to having glazed over  now and again  when it has come to all this cami-love. So. You know where this is going, right? the front! Lots has been said about this pattern, so I’ll keep it brief. It really is a good one, and now I see what the fuss has been about. It’s a simple garment, but those basics are sometimes challenging to get just right . It’s true - the Ogden is nicely drafted, com...