Pattern review: the Frankie & Ray Anna Knicker
Knickers! Undies! Dacks! Do you like buying them? I hate it. They're either ridiculously expensive or yawningly utilitarian, or even both.
The Frankie & Ray Anna Knicker has transformed my knicker drawer (actually the overflowing mess of a shelf in my tiny, cramped wardrobe... but let's for a minute pretend I have a pretty knicker drawer where everything is folded and perfumed with embroidered lavender sachets, shall we?).
The bias cut woven knicker is your friend, friends! I have written about this before, using another good pattern. I find the Frankie and Ray Anna Knicker an even better fit for me. The waist is a little higher and more snug, keeping these right where they need to stay, all day. Plus you have the option of two waist heights and a French knicker version.
Try any lightweight, natural fibre woven fabric
The Anna Knicker is a great scrap-buster or one to use for that adorable print that made you think 'I love it, but what can I do with it?'. I've made the Anna (lower waist, elastic leg) in Liberty Tana Lawn, cotton seersucker, voile, quilting cotton and linen, and they've all worked well. The linen may be a little less durable over wash & wear but it was from a scrap piece, so I'll enjoy them while I can! The gusset can be made out of the same fabric, which was a small revelation to me (why the heck not when it's all natural and breathable?) and I think it makes these all the prettier.
Aren't they kind of puffy?
If you haven't tried woven knickers before, this is a perfectly reasonable thing to wonder.
(Image source)
I'm certainly not going to model the knickers for a blog post but you'll have to believe me when I say the bias cut allows woven fabric to be cut quite closely to your body shape and smoothly conform to your curves. There might not be knit spandex-style negative ease 'hugging' happening, but no, they're not going to look like baby bloomers!
A note on elastic.
I was lucky enough to be a tester for Jo of Frankie & Ray when she was developing this pattern, which was over a year ago. So this means that I've been wearing my first versions of the Anna for over a year, and they're mostly still holding up well. But I used various picot-edge underwear elastics on them and some of that has not gone the distance. I replaced the waistband elastic on one pair, which was laborious, but I loved the fabric too much to let them go. It's well worth making sure you use quality elastic. If you have a supply of reliable decorative picot-edge knicker elastic, that's great. Otherwise I suggest you try an 'extra strength' 1/4 inch elastic like this one we stock. It's important to note that it is less stretchy than many other elastics, so you will need a bit more. I found a ratio of about 77 - 80% of the waist and leg measurements to work well. If in doubt, make sure you hold the elastic around your leg and waist to find the right length for your own comfort.
It can take a bit of practice to gain confidence applying the narrow elastic around curved edges. I found it best to take it a very little bit at a time, holding the lightly stretched elastic firmly in place with my fingers (with the other hand normally guiding the fabric and elastic behind the presser foot, but it's holding the camera in this photo).
Give it a try. You could be whipping up your own Anna Knickers in no time!
PATTERN: The Anna Knicker by Frankie and Ray
SIZE: Luscious (X-Small, Small, Medium, Luscious, X-Luscious, XX-Luscious)
FABRIC: Various remnants, scraps and small cuts in lightweight cotton and linen
NOTIONS: 1/4 inch elastic, Extra Strong Non-Twist
NOTES: Read elastic advice, above. A lovely pattern for comfy, stay-put knickers in all the pretty and fun woven fabrics!
- Jane & Fiona xx
The Frankie & Ray Anna Knicker has transformed my knicker drawer (actually the overflowing mess of a shelf in my tiny, cramped wardrobe... but let's for a minute pretend I have a pretty knicker drawer where everything is folded and perfumed with embroidered lavender sachets, shall we?).
 |
| Anna in 'Strawberry Humbug' linen (sold out) |
The bias cut woven knicker is your friend, friends! I have written about this before, using another good pattern. I find the Frankie and Ray Anna Knicker an even better fit for me. The waist is a little higher and more snug, keeping these right where they need to stay, all day. Plus you have the option of two waist heights and a French knicker version.
Try any lightweight, natural fibre woven fabric
The Anna Knicker is a great scrap-buster or one to use for that adorable print that made you think 'I love it, but what can I do with it?'. I've made the Anna (lower waist, elastic leg) in Liberty Tana Lawn, cotton seersucker, voile, quilting cotton and linen, and they've all worked well. The linen may be a little less durable over wash & wear but it was from a scrap piece, so I'll enjoy them while I can! The gusset can be made out of the same fabric, which was a small revelation to me (why the heck not when it's all natural and breathable?) and I think it makes these all the prettier.
Aren't they kind of puffy?
If you haven't tried woven knickers before, this is a perfectly reasonable thing to wonder.
I'm certainly not going to model the knickers for a blog post but you'll have to believe me when I say the bias cut allows woven fabric to be cut quite closely to your body shape and smoothly conform to your curves. There might not be knit spandex-style negative ease 'hugging' happening, but no, they're not going to look like baby bloomers!
 |
| Top: finished. Bottom: in progress. You might be able to see the untidy contrast stitching on the white elastic. I changed my thread colours for sewing the elastic on the second pair for a more pleasing result! |
A note on elastic.
I was lucky enough to be a tester for Jo of Frankie & Ray when she was developing this pattern, which was over a year ago. So this means that I've been wearing my first versions of the Anna for over a year, and they're mostly still holding up well. But I used various picot-edge underwear elastics on them and some of that has not gone the distance. I replaced the waistband elastic on one pair, which was laborious, but I loved the fabric too much to let them go. It's well worth making sure you use quality elastic. If you have a supply of reliable decorative picot-edge knicker elastic, that's great. Otherwise I suggest you try an 'extra strength' 1/4 inch elastic like this one we stock. It's important to note that it is less stretchy than many other elastics, so you will need a bit more. I found a ratio of about 77 - 80% of the waist and leg measurements to work well. If in doubt, make sure you hold the elastic around your leg and waist to find the right length for your own comfort.
It can take a bit of practice to gain confidence applying the narrow elastic around curved edges. I found it best to take it a very little bit at a time, holding the lightly stretched elastic firmly in place with my fingers (with the other hand normally guiding the fabric and elastic behind the presser foot, but it's holding the camera in this photo).
Give it a try. You could be whipping up your own Anna Knickers in no time!
PATTERN: The Anna Knicker by Frankie and Ray
SIZE: Luscious (X-Small, Small, Medium, Luscious, X-Luscious, XX-Luscious)
FABRIC: Various remnants, scraps and small cuts in lightweight cotton and linen
NOTIONS: 1/4 inch elastic, Extra Strong Non-Twist
NOTES: Read elastic advice, above. A lovely pattern for comfy, stay-put knickers in all the pretty and fun woven fabrics!
- Jane & Fiona xx
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