Pattern Review: In The Folds Jumpsuit (free pattern for Peppermint Magazine)

Did someone say jumpsuit? Free pattern? By fantastic Australian designer In The Folds?
I was onto it like a shot! Pattern promo pic:

I certainly hope Emily of In The Folds is paid quite well by Peppermint Magazine for the patterns she designs for them, because she's a thorough professional. This is a great pattern, a really well-constructed blank slate for individual interpretation or just a really clean, simple silhouette. So thanks Peppermint Magazine, for making this available to sewists everywhere (and for encouraging sewing in general)! And thanks Emily for the fab designs (more online here).

I made a muslin, which we always recommend and is particularly wise for a fabric-hungry pattern like this. You really don't want to use your 'good' fabric until you're sure of what you're doing.

Muslin legs not full length because that was not necessary to check fit

The pattern states that it's designed for a height of 5'7" which is a good four inches taller than me. So before I even made the muslin I removed 1.5" at the bodice 'lengthen/shorten' line and another 1.5" at the line on the leg (front and back, of course). Apart from that my measurements fit nicely into one size, which is unusual for me but no complaints! And the muslin was a great fit, hurrah. Didn't even need a full bust adjustment.

I wanted to add pockets, and thought large patch pockets on the front would suit this very minimalist silhouette. A template made simply by folding a piece of A4 paper in half looked just right to me. So I used that and added seam allowance and top hem allowance.

I kind of fell in love with the green of my muslin (an old bedsheet) and couldn't get it out of my mind. That drew me to the 'Eucalypt' green Outback Wife cotton barkcloth by Gertrude Made. I generally find green a bit hard to work into my wardrobe but when we're talking single-garment-as-entire-outfit, all I need to match is shoes! And I already knew how lovely this barkcloth is to sew and wear, thanks to my Laneway Dress. Voila - green Jumpsuit!

Hmm what else do I need to say about this? I love it! The all-in-one neck and armhole facing gives a nice clean finish and the instructions to achieve this are great.

I was all geared up to try an invisible zip as specified, which I haven't tried in years and usually avoid like the plague. But all I could find (without travelling too far) was a regular zip in a good colour match. So I decided now was the time I would give the ol' "hand-picked zip" a go.

(speaking of colour match, please ignore the colour variations in my photographs!)

Basically this just means hand-sewing the zip in, using a backstitch that picks up just a tiny bit of fabric on the outside. I followed this tutorial at the Sewaholic website and am pleased with the result. I'd do it again! I'm also pleased to report that the jumpsuit is quite easy to get in and out of, even after a couple of drinks....

So here's the jumpsuit with and without the waist tie.

 I've also worn it with a fitted t-shirt underneath and love it like that, too. This is a year-round winner! It would be cute cut with short legs too, I think. I can imagine this being a real wardrobe staple in denim or chambray, or quite special in this linen viscose. And naturally our drapey, cool, soft washed linens would be a summer delight.

PATTERN: Jumpsuit by In The Folds for Peppermint Magazine (free pdf download, printable in large format AO or piece-together A4)
FABRIC: 100% cotton barkcloth, Outback Wife by Gertrude Made, in Eucalypt, made in Japan 2.6m
SIZE: E - this pattern is available in sizes A-K, full bust measurement 76cm/30" to 131cm/51.5" and designed for height of 170cm/5'7"
ADJUSTMENTS: 1.5" length taken from bodice and legs (3" total)
COMMENTS: A very nicely drafted pattern that came together well. I really appreciate details like angled ends of seam allowances that fold back to fit beautifully along the body pieces. I think this has a pretty forgiving fit, which makes it more beginner-friendly. The armhole is a wee bit low on me and I did mean to raise it a tad but forgot and then I'd cut out the first piece and it was too late... but I don't mind. If you've never tried the 'burrito method' of attaching facings before, you'll be introduced to this magic to create a lovely neat finish (trust in the instructions, it's very hard to visualise!).

I think this pattern will be an absolute winner this summer. Will you give it a try?

- Jane & Fiona xx