Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Deer and Doe Arum dress in Chambray and Liberty


We were very excited to order in the new Deer and Doe patterns, including this simple beauty, the Arum. 
By a stroke of luck this dress, made up in 'Otter' Chambray and Liberty Tana Lawn, is a good fit for both of us so we are showing you how it fits on two fairly different shapes.

With just three main pattern pieces (plus pocket and binding or facing), the Arum is a very quick sew. Cleverly designed with cut-on, slightly kimono-style sleeves, there's no need for bust darts. Princess seaming at the back provides flattering shaping.

 
This is a straight-out-of-the-packet Size 42. Common adjustments Jane would have to make: full bust, narrow shoulder, short waist/sway back, general concessions to pear shape! Whereas Fiona is almost the opposite with broader shoulders and narrow hips.

If you wanted to be fussy about fitting, those back seams would allow easy adjustment in the shoulder area, and side seams could be adjusted for waist and hips. With a healthy 5/8" seam allowance, there's a bit to play around with. In our opinion though this is a relaxed style, so a bit of extra ease and movement (aka wrinkles!) in places is no bad thing. And did we mention how comfy this is? Super comfy.

The little pocket lets you dress up a plain fabric with a touch of pretty, if you desire. From a fat quarter of Liberty 'Bourton' I cut the pocket, bias to bind the neckline and more bias to bind the hem.
I was very happy to see that the neckline was finished with either a facing or bias: instructions are included for both. I've never been a fan of facings and was about to whack on a bias finish in my usual manner when I paused to read the instructions (ahem) and learnt something new! It involves pre-shaping the bias and sewing the first pass with the tape folded in half, and makes for a lovely compact, neat finish.
 Taller people may wish to lengthen the pattern. We're 5'3" (Jane) and 5'5" (Fiona) and the length you see on us would finish a wee bit shorter with a double-turn hem as per the pattern.


We think the Arum would make up nicely in a large variety of fabrics, including quilting cottons, linens, lawn, double gauze, rayon and even probably knit (perhaps size down). An easy variation would be to omit the top pocket and add a patch pocket or two at hand-height. As you can see there's also the option to make as a top, which would look great with simple shorts like Deer and Doe Chataigne or Grainline Studio Maritime, or perhaps the Grainline Moss Skirt.


And we'll leave you with the twinsies picture again. There will certainly be more Arums (Arii?) happening around here!

Deer and Doe patterns can be purchased in-store or ordered via email info@thedrapery.com.au or phone (08) 7324 5883 Wed - Fri 10am - 4pm, Sat 12 - 4, ACST.

- Jane & Fiona xx









































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