Monday, February 4, 2019

Grainline Hemlock Tee in Hemp & Organic Cotton Jersey

We're thrilled to have four colours of this beautiful 55% Hemp 45% Organic Cotton Jersey in store at the moment. Even better, it's very affordable (in the realm of hemp fabrics) and particularly sustainable because it's leftovers from a local maker.
'Rose' colourway

To demonstrate the loveliness of this knit fabric I whipped up a simple sleeveless t-shirt using the Hemlock Tee pattern by Grainline Studios, a free downloadable pdf. And I really do mean 'whipped up'. A garment could barely be any simpler and this was done and dusted in between helping customers on a weekday morning in the shop.

The body of the pattern is quite long, and I shortened it by about 5cm.

I prewashed my fabric and it shrank in length (as can always be expected from a jersey) from 75cm to around 70cm. This was barely enough to cut the shortened tee from so I'd recommend using a little more! I also didn't have enough fabric to cut the neck band across the grain. Seeing as this fabric has a reasonable amount of stretch down its length as well as across its width, I defied all good knit sewing sense and cut my neckband the wrong way i.e. along the grain. (I can hear you gasping.) It worked fine! After a wash the neckband looks a tiny bit wavy/lumpy, which is probably the price I'm paying for this, and I'm totally fine with that.

To make the Hemlock sleeveless, I used the sleeve notches as my guides and folded in a small hem. When sewing the body sides together, I started on top of the ends of the hem (see pics below). I pressed the seams open.
Armhole hem folded and pinned.

Sides sewn, starting by sewing over the end of the armhole hem.

Bottom of armhole from the outside, after pressing.
I sewed this whole garment on a regular machine with a ballpoint needle, zigzag stitch and cotton thread, with the idea that the entire garment would ultimately be biodegradable. Just writing this I have realised that the clear elastic I used to stabilise the shoulder seams mucks up that intention, but it's close. Usually we would recommend a polyester thread for sewing knits, because its strength holds up better to the stretch of seams. The Hemlock is such a loose fit that none of the seams or hems will ever be under much stress so I am confident of them being quite durable. I didn't even use a walking foot, which can be helpful when sewing knits (because I didn't think of it) and this jersey behaved itself very nicely indeed.
Bottom hem, after a wash.
And here's a hasty shop-selfie to show what it looks like on a human! It may be 'sleeveless' but the boxy shape gives a little cap-sleeve. (If you're after a pattern for this shape but in a woven fabric, we can recommend the Box Top by Frankie and Ray.)

I'm happy to report that this tee is insanely soft and comfortable and I'm wearing it right now as I type. We're not sure how much of this fabric we'll be able to get hold of so if you're keen, don't leave it too long, okay?

Oh and a clever sewist on Facebook commented that this pattern also looks great with a pocket - I can just picture that, can't you? And it would mean even fewer scraps left over!

- Jane & Fiona xx

Wednesday, January 16, 2019

About racism (let's not beat about the bush).

If you follow much of the online crafting community you will probably have come across a recent conversation about racism, which was sparked in the knitting community. We've followed, we've read, we've had our eyes opened and thought a lot. And we've discussed whether it's our place, as owners of a tiny, independent fabric shop, to contribute to the conversation.

Our conclusion? It must be better to say something (and risk 'jumping on the bandwagon' or saying the wrong thing) than to say nothing at all. Active anti-racism is still, unfortunately, a necessity.

So, briefly, we wish to say that we wholeheartedly welcome people of all races and other diversities at The Drapery. We recognise our own white privilege, and that intent and effect can be entirely different. We are still learning about the forms white privilege takes and the way it affects others. Please let us know when and how we can do better.

If you wish to know and do more, may we suggest a good starting point is the Instagram account (including Stories) of @su.krita - and then dig deeper. It's ultimately a really positive thing.

- Jane & Fiona xx

Thursday, December 6, 2018

Pattern Review: Papercut Patterns Palisade Pants

This is our second blogged garment from the new Papercut Patterns collection called 'Geo'. It's full of things we want to sew! (If you missed Fiona's writeup of the Pinnacle Top you can find it here.)

As the weather has warmed up I've started to wonder whether I need some 'pants that are not jeans' in my life. Something a bit lighter, a bit looser. What tipped me over the edge with the Papercut Palisade Pants pattern was of course those pockets!

The pattern description:
"A staple pant to have in your wardrobe for every season. The centre front and back seams on the leg replace the side seam for a streamline look. Detail cross-over pockets span the side panel. Elasticated waistband with a flat piece at front and a faux fly. Comfort is key with these pants. Two length options, pants or shorts.  Fabrics: Mid weight woven fabric. Could be made out of pretty much anything. Cotton, linen, silk, chambray, rayon. Your creativity is the limit!"

For my first try I chose some brown-ish cotton chambray ('Rhinoceros'). I measured between the M and L sizes so went with the L. These were my muslin / handy-dandy shop sample.
The fit is predictably imperfect for pants-with-no-muslin, but reflective of my 163cm height, short waist and measuring in-between sizes. If you're taller than me and measure accurately at one size I think you may find the Palisade Pants a pretty good fit!

These were quite promising and I was still so enamoured of the pockets that within a couple of days I had made some pattern adjustments and was well into a second pair.

Alterations (which sound like a lot but largely amounted to sizing down and lowering the front waistband):

  • Trimmed the waist edge of the front and side panels, tapering from about 1" at centre front to nothing at the back of the side panels.
  • Trimmed about 1/2" off the inseam from crotch point, tapering down to notch on front and back panels, to raise the crotch a little.
  • Sewed everything except the pocket facing with 5/8" seam allowance instead of 3/8" to slim a little all around.
  • Shortened the legs through the shorts cutoff line. 
  • Omitted interfacing on the faux fly.
  • Added a couple of lines of topstitching around the elastic portion of the waistband to stop the elastic from rolling.

Et voila.

Please note that above, these are fresh off the clothesline and ironed. They're snug in this photo, but the fabric has definite 'give' within a short time of moving about. See more accurate rear fit pic below.

I'm completely delighted with these Palisade Pants and I've worn them a lot already. For me, pants fitting is a process of making a 'close enough' wearable version of a pattern, then allowing a good amount of wear to inform tweaks for my next pair. So... for my next Palisades? I want to adjust my pattern for a bit more bum-room (using the invaluable Closet Case Patterns free pants fitting download!) so that I can bend and sit without revealing more than intended. For a breezy summer pair of pants I would need to loosen the ankle and calf a smidge to allow for roll-up potential.

And let's see a bit more of that pocket so we don't end on a rear-view photo....

As with many Papercut patterns, a variety of fabrics can be used for a great variation in final garment. Our drapey Cupros, Tencels, Modals and blends would be dreamily fluid and light for summer, while linen is our most breathable and moisture-wicking fabric for the heat. Denim and chambray are trans-seasonal classics and we're picturing chunky cotton corduroy Palisades for next winter. Hemp/organic cotton wovens are durable and will age beautifully. As one of our clever customers did, you could use a contrast on the inside pocket panel to highlight the crossover detail.

PATTERN: Palisade Pants by Papercut Patterns

FABRIC: Rhinoceros 100% cotton chambray, Chestnut Japanese linen/cotton Textured Twill (meterage as per pattern recommendations for size/width - I found estimates very accurate and cutting from 110cm wide fabric pleasingly low waste).

SIZE: First one L, second one adjusted, similar to M dimensions.

ALTERATIONS: Narrowed all over, shortened crotch, front waist & legs.

COMMENTS: The flat front, tapered leg and fabulous pockets elevate the Palisade Pants way beyond a simple pull-on design, but they're still comfortable and sew up rewardingly quickly. The waist is fairly high-rise, particularly at the front. If you think you may have to adjust this for your own shape, we highly recommend a muslin (very wise with any pants pattern).

So that's a great big thumbs up from us for this pattern. What do you think?

- Jane & Fiona xx

Wednesday, November 21, 2018

Pattern Review: Papercut Pinnacle Top

We are feeling the love for all things Papercut lately. Their last pattern release was a cracker (the Kochi Kimono has become a firm favourite in these parts), and now their new collection Geo has made its way into our hot little hands. There is much to love in Geo (check our online shop under Papercut for others, plus Jane is in the middle of sewing up another of the Geo patterns, so watch this space)… but for me, the Pinnacle Top immediately called my name.

Pinnacle is a boxy top that can be made in a few different ways: either as a knit sweater or from woven fabric, each variation featuring those fantastic geometric seam lines down centre front. I’ve been on the look out for a loose, long sleeved woven top to wear with jeans for a while now, so Variation 2 with the higher neckline and pretty tie-back elbowed its way right to the top of my sewing queue.

Fabric choice 
This Pinnacle Top is made from “11pm”, a 100% washed linen in deepest navy and one of our lighter linens at 160gsm. I’m having quite the moment with this stuff, it’s incredibly soft and swishy with beautiful drape and suits the oversized boxiness of this top perfectly. Not so easy to capture in a photo (the curse of all dark tones)... but trust me, it's quite lush! Many of our washed linens would work beautifully for this pattern, or a tencel blend like this.

Pinnacle’s non-standard pattern shapes (two triangles, two ‘body’ pieces plus some neck binding) make for really fun sewing. I admit to having a bit of a head-scratch when it came to sewing the two body pieces together at the centre front where all the seam points meet. I couldn’t get my head around the diagrams so pinned a couple of steps ahead in order to be sure I didn’t end up with a sleeve hem inadvertently sewn to a neckline. Seam ripping on delicate swishy dark fabric? No thanks!

I’d recommend some basting at this stage. Getting that centre-point seam to meet was tricky so basting saved the day. Once that seam is complete though, this top comes together very quickly: some stitching, some folding and turning right-side out… and somehow a top appears. This was a really refreshing change from standard set in/raglan sleeve construction.

The other thing I’d recommend is to handle your cut pieces with care, especially the small triangles. The directions didn’t stipulate any stay-stitching and I was concerned that the neckline in particular might stretch out. It didn’t, so probably a little overly cautious on my behalf, but I think if I was sewing this in a slinky fabric again I'd do some stabilizing just to be sure.

Papercut have categorised this as suitable for beginners, and whilst there is nothing complicated or time consuming, I’d definitely want some garment experience under my belt before I tackled this pattern. 

After cutting out this in size M according to my measurements, I read that a lovely Instagram friend had just completed her first Pinnacle top. She also measured for the M, but had gone down two sizes to get her preferred fit. So I was expecting this to be oversized… and it is! Not a problem in this drapey light fabric, but next time (there will most definitely be a next time!) I’ll size down, especially for a less fluid fabric. 

Measuring about 40cm from neck to hem, the Pinnacle is fairly cropped, perfect for high-waisted pants-wearers. For me, my mid-40s midriff and my jeans though, it’s a resounding no without something layered underneath, so I’ll need to try to lengthen the pattern for peak jeans + slouchy top goodness. Next time? I'm eyeing off some fine striped linen/cotton for this pattern. Can’t wait!

Papercut Pinnacle Pattern can be found here.
'11pm' 100% washed linen can be found here.

- Fiona & Jane xx

Tuesday, September 11, 2018

Pattern review: Papercut Patterns Kochi Kimono in Nani Iro linen

The kimono-inspired jacket trend has been around a few years, and we're the first to admit we are not always first aboard the trend-train. Bt slowly, slowly, these things can sneak up and then lo and behold, there's a kimono-shaped hole in our wardrobes we never noticed before.
Papercut Kochi Kimono pattern line drawings
Fiona first tried the Kochi Kimono by Papercut Patterns (released June 2017) in a 'wearable muslin' made from a variety of linen and light denim scraps. She decided the shape wasn't working for her and put it aside. (But she's currently working with another kimono-inspired pattern so stay tuned!) Then recently I needed to dress for a Japanese-themed dinner and borrowed Fiona's Kochi. What do you know, I loved it, and immediately wanted one of my own.

There are several variations in the Kochi Kimono pattern: with or without neck band, lining, patch pockets and tie closure. I made the simplest, most pared-down version which has just four pattern pieces: front, back, sleeve and neck band.

It comes together in almost no time. I like the look of it fastened simply at the front with a brooch.

The fabric I used is the divine Nani Iro linen 'Situation'. It's a match made in heaven if I do say so myself. We have quite a few new season's Nani Iro linens in stock (see the Nani Iro section of the store here) and they would all make the most beautiful Kochis.

Fabric requirements only specify 140-150cm fabric but the Kochi is entirely possible out of 110cm wide fabric. After laying the pattern out I cut 2.1m. There was about 5% shrinkage when I pre-washed the linen, and I had a bit of a panic when I thought I'd ended up short. But after a lot of 'pattern Tetris' I was very pleased to actually end up with about 20cm to spare. It took a lot of juggling and single-layer cutting (especially with a directional pattern) so beware! It's a fairly fabric-hungry beast with all that volume. If you'd like to play it on the safe side I'd recommend around 2.25m of 110cm wide fabric, possibly more for larger sizes.

One of the advantages of making a popular pattern when it's been released for a while is the number of reviews you can find on the internet, which help guide the making. Fiona read many reviews suggesting to size down, and made Size S. I was very happy with the fit of that and so also made that size.


Seam finishes
Looking around the web at other sewists' Kochi Kimonos, I noticed some nice details and suggestions like bias binding all the raw edges, or increasing the seam allowance (which is 1cm) to make French seams easier to achieve. Either of these would be a nice touch, especially if you like to wear your Kochi like an open jacket, because seam finishes will be somewhat visible. After reading right through the instructions, I overlocked all raw edges except neckline before assembly, and turned the overlocked edge of the hem under again to hide it when I completed the sleeve and body hems.

'Fusing' = fusible interfacing
The instructions for the view I made said to cut strips of 'fusing' and attach to the hems of body and sleeves. I found this a little ambiguous, but yes it does mean you should use strips of fusible interfacing to stabilise the hems and give them a bit of structure. I feel this is a subtle but important part of the lovely shape of the Kochi, so don't skip this step. Our lightweight cotton woven fusible interfacing is ideal for this.

Follow the order of construction
I wanted to attach the neckband earlier but then I realised other parts needed finishing in (surprise!) the written order.

It's ideal for dressing up jeans
Been wearing jeans all day but need to go out and look presentable somewhere? Throw on a Kochi and instantly feel a bit fancy! And despite the amount of volume in those sleeves, they're cut the perfect length to not get in your way at all. So you can still do all your jeans-wearing practical things while feeling a bit fancy.


PATTERN: Kochi Kimono by Papercut Patterns, Variation 3
FABRIC: Nani Iro 'Situation' 100% linen, 110cm wide, 2.1m
SIZE: S, no alterations
COMMENTS: The hardest part about this make was fitting all the pieces onto my fabric. With the different views and different fabrics you can use (pretty much anything woven!), the Kochi is a versatile pattern that could produce quite varied garments. Simply lovely.

- Jane & Fiona xx

Monday, August 20, 2018

Pattern Review: Closet Case Ginger Jeans

It's fair to say we are in the midst of a denim phase at the moment. Here we are blogging about jeans making again. Sewing your own jeans is a fair undertaking, what with all the top-stitching and hardware, not to mention the fitting... it’s time consuming. But at the end? You feel like you’ve unlocked a new sewing achievement. Even better? YOU NEVER NEED TO GO JEANS SHOPPING AGAIN.

These jeans were started in my head a couple of years ago. I gathered together pattern and fabric then promptly decided that I really wasn’t much of a jeans wearer anyhow, so into the stash they both went.

Fast forward two years and I was becoming “jeans curious” again, missing the ease of a good pair of jeans in my wardrobe. So out came the pattern and fabric which had now marinated in my stash long enough for me to feel ok about using it for a wearable muslin. Jeans were on once more! Maybe I’d be a jeans-wearer after all? (And if not, I could use them in the shop as a sample, so nothing lost, except perhaps a fair whack of time). 

Fabric choice
I used a 10oz black cotton denim with 2% lycra content from M Recht - purchased over 2 years ago before we had found a good source of black stretch denim. Even though the pattern calls for at least 2% stretch, I suspect there's not quite enough stretch in these (actual stretch in stretch wovens seems to vary according to thread weight and type). I’d recommend you get your hands on a few stretch denims before making your fabric choice. We currently have both black and Tarragon cotton/spandex stretch twills plus these coloured cotton blend stretch denims (though the latter may be slightly too light for View A). Lining is a light cotton from the stash.

I decided on View A, stovepipe option with low rise. Fitting and sizing was always going to be a bit tricky for me, falling across 2 different sizes for hips and waist. (Does that make me apple shaped? An inverted triangle? Gah!) After much deliberation I chose the size to fit my waist, figuring that removing fabric to fit my hips would be easier than adding it at the waist. (Incidentally, the Cashmerette Ames jeans pattern (available in store) carries lots of different options to accommodate apple and pear shapes, I think that might be an interesting jeans pattern to try too). 

black garments, so hard to photograph, and omnipresent dog/s not really helping to illustrate jeans, sorry!

So much good stuff has been said about the Ginger jeans pattern, and I can see why. If you are at all teetering about making jeans, then this is a great pattern to start with. Heather Lou’s instructions are extremely clear, and there’s an excellent online sew-along with great photos if you have any head scratching moments. The directions for the zip fly are the best I have ever come across. (I look forward to doing it again - seriously!)

Another thing about jeans making: you may think you need a significant amount of kit in order to get started, but that really isn’t the case. As a test to see if it was up to it, I sewed this pair entirely on my 1981 Bernina. I needed to flatten some of the bulkier seams with a hammer and use the hand wheel to push the needle through thicker layers, but it managed just fine. As far as using one machine goes, using the same colour topstitching thread as the construction thread helped because I didn’t have to change bobbins constantly, only needles and top thread. Next time I’d have two machines going (and probably an overlocker), but this was entirely doable just with a little bit of switching stitches, needles and thread (and making notes about tension settings etc along the way!) 

Made a cutting mistake, so the coin pocket ended up on the right hand side, oops. 
We stock the very handy Closet Case Jeans hardware kits at the shop. These are great, but - sewers of black jeans take note - that these contain only 7 inch BLUE zips. For the Ginger pattern, the length of the recommended zip differs according to not only which style you’re sewing (high or low rise) but also your size. I ended up using a 7 inch (black!) zipper when according to the pattern I should have used an 8 inch one. However, I still ended up cutting mine down by more than an inch, so don’t worry too much about sourcing the perfect length, at least for the low rise option. 

The kits include rivets and jeans buttons too. It was a first time rivet install for me - and my only piece of advice is to follow the instructions. There really is a reason she recommends using a cast iron pan/steel base for these! Incidentally, I needed to cut my rivets down as the posts were on the long side (perhaps too much hammering down of seams?!) but some heavy garden snips did the trick.

note broken rivets on table. use an anvil or cast iron pan, folks!

Before I started this project, I read a few pattern reviews and it seemed like almost every sewist raved with glowing enthusiasm about how their Ginger Jeans fit like a glove first time. Because of my measurements - no surprises - I wasn’t one of them. These have taken plenty of tweaking, and I still have a laundry list of adjustments for next time. The fitting guide on the Closet Case website is a brilliant resource that really takes the mystery out of the intimidating world of pants adjustments. On this pair I did a partial flat seat adjustment and a full calf adjustment. Despite my size deliberations, they were were also too big at the waist and in the leg - in part style preference (turns out I prefer a skinny leg to a stovepipe) and other part the reason why we make muslins. After taking out about an inch from each side seam from the hips down this pair is wearable with a belt to help rein in some of the excess at the waist.

Before waistband and adjustments. So baggy!
After. A bit better.
Pre-waistband and side adjustments, compared to a pair of rtw jeans (on the top)
The thing about jeans is that you can’t really fit them properly until the garment is quite advanced. By which time your investment is considerable and you are really wanting these puppies to WORK. I got these to the point of the side seams and then baste fitted them (I’d read this tip somewhere and it really helped). But, I also reckon subjecting your jeans to some good old wash and wear is the best way to really find out how they fit.

Aaaand, from the back. Looking super wrinkly without a belt to hitch them up!
Next time, I’ll do a proper flat seat adjustment and will be more generous with the wide calf adjustment (there are probably a few too many wrinkles around the knee). I’ll go down a size and sew the skinny leg option, adding about 1-1.5 inches to the low-rise. I’m also going to use the pocket stay option from version B because more, erm, stabilizing in that area can never be a bad thing! I’ll lift the back pockets and endeavour to put the coin pocket on the right side too, oops. So, yup, basically make a whole new pair of Gingers. That said, for a wearable muslin these will do - I’ll get plenty of wear out of them. 

It’s terrifically satisfying to get really stuck into a big project like this and end up with something that looks like the real deal. I’ve learned a lot - not only about jeans adjustments but also about how I like to wear them. All artillery for next time. The idea that I can work toward making the perfectly fitting pair of jeans is, well, a bit thrilling… (but perhaps I need to get out more, ha!)

The Closet Case Ginger Jeans pattern can be found here

- Fiona & Jane 

Thursday, August 2, 2018

Pattern Review - Merchant & Mills Francine Top

Francine is a top & dress pattern from British company Merchant & Mills' recently released Denim Collection. It's a stylish and simple take on a workwear style, 'inspired by the fishermen of Brittany'.

For the purposes of a true-to-the-pattern shop sample I made a size 12 top with no alterations. 

This size was chosen based on my previous experience with Merchant & Mills patterns, but my measurements would put me in a size 14. Not all Merchant & Mills patterns are quite so generous in ease, as I discovered! If I was making this specifically for my own wearing I'd have made a muslin first, so please bear in mind the fit comments below are not intended as criticisms of the pattern, but as observations that may be helpful to others who make it.

The process

I find Merchant & Mills instructions to be quite good, but often a bit different to methods I'm used to. I don't mind this, and quite enjoy surrendering to the process, trusting in the instructions and usually learning along the way.

For example, the front neckline slit is staystitched on the bodice and facing separately, then each is snipped open, and the two not joined together until somewhat later. You get to sew the front collar edges and neckline slit all in one smooth line which is quite satisfying.

The collar is attached to facing and bodice necklines separately and you end up with a bunch of seam allowances pressed open and kind of floating about loose inside the collar edge. It seems fine for now but I do wonder how this would go through wash and wear. Might the seam allowances decide to move around and maybe fold the wrong way and make lumps? Hmmm.

A quirky feature of the Francine is the option to place the pocket on the outside or the inside. I didn't notice until I read the instructions, but the garment on the pattern cover has the pocket sewn on the inside. Perhaps this is a traditional 'fishermen of Brittany' feature but honestly I just find it a bit weird so I opted for an outside pocket!

There's a lot of satisfying topstitching on this pattern and as per when I sewed my jeans, I set up a second machine for this because it requires special thread, needle and tension and it's done at many different stages of construction. It makes a relatively simple top take a bit longer to sew but the extra detail is what makes it special.

Everything came together nicely. There's minimal ease in the sleeve head, although it appears there's a bit at first because of the generous seam allowance.

I recommend pinning as close as possible to the actual stitching line, and having the sleeve side down towards the feed dogs of your machine as you sew, to help ease the curves together.

I'm not sure that I've really mastered the split side hem on any garment yet. I found the end result difficult to visualise so again just walked through the steps as instructed and it worked well enough. I added extra topstitching and then, later, a bartack along the top of the split because it looked to me like it needed a bit of reinforcement.

The fit

I'm used to Merchant & Mills patterns being on the generous side for fit so it came as a bit of a surprise to me that the Francine was quite snug across the bust, with a feeling of pulling my shoulders forward. (It has no darts so perhaps not so surprising really.) As mentioned above, my size per measurements is really a 14 so this would have provided me with more breathing room. However the shoulder width in the 12 fits me, so I would choose to do an FBA on this size.

Without an FBA the top rides up in front. Once corrected, it's possible I still might want this top a little bit longer. I like the length but this girl needs to move without flashing her belly.

These are certainly long enough. The shoulder sits nicely when my arms are by my sides. However, if I raise my arms the entire garment lifts... a lot. It's another case of high sleeve head and sleeve fitted in at a sharp angle, such as I experienced with the Papercut Patterns Skipper Tunic. I'm not sure if this is specific to my body shape, but for me at least, I will redraw the armscye and sleeve head from a favourite fitting pattern (Deer and Doe Aubepine) to give myself freedom of movement without indecent exposure!
poor quality photo for the sake of sewing information!

I find the top a little bit of a struggle to extract myself from, around the shoulder area. Possibly an FBA will also help with this. Overall there seems to be significantly less wearing ease in this pattern than the other two Merchant & Mills dress patterns I've made (Factory Dress and now out of print Union Dress). I expected that the fit might be a bit like the Top 64 (I've tried on our shop sample size 12) which is also quite generous on me. However it's much more of a shirt-like fit than an overshirt, and it's a fair bit shorter.
perhaps one day I will learn how to adjust something without a waist seam to fix that pooling in the back


Merchant & Mills Francine Top (& Dress)

100% cotton Japanese Denim, 'Schist', 1.65m x 110cm wide (as usual with M&M patterns I found the fabric allowance accurate and pleasingly non-wasteful).


None for this sample, would add bust dart and change sleeve head/armscye for personal fit.

A very appealing style, more fitted and shirt-like than I was expecting. Versatile, because it works well in denim weight but I can also imagine it in a light cotton or linen with short sleeves - and also as a dress - for summer. Measure yourself carefully and if in doubt, make a muslin!

- Jane & Fiona xx