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Pattern Review: Papercut Patterns Palisade Pants

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This is our second blogged garment from the new Papercut Patterns collection called 'Geo'. It's full of things we want to sew! (If you missed Fiona's writeup of the Pinnacle Top you can find it here .) As the weather has warmed up I've started to wonder whether I need some 'pants that are not jeans' in my life. Something a bit lighter, a bit looser. What tipped me over the edge with the Papercut Palisade Pants pattern was of course those pockets! The pattern description: "A staple pant to have in your wardrobe for every season. The centre front and back seams on the leg replace the side seam for a streamline look. Detail cross-over pockets span the side panel. Elasticated waistband with a flat piece at front and a faux fly. Comfort is key with these pants. Two length options, pants or shorts.  Fabrics:  Mid weight woven fabric. Could be made out of pretty much anything. Cotton, linen, silk, chambray, rayon. Your creativity is the limit!"

Pattern Review: Papercut Pinnacle Top

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We are feeling the love for all things Papercut lately. Their last pattern release was a cracker (the Kochi Kimono has become a firm favourite in these parts), and now their new collection Geo has made its way into our hot little hands. There is much to love in Geo (check our online shop under Papercut for others, plus Jane is in the middle of sewing up another of the Geo patterns, so watch this space)… but for me, the Pinnacle Top immediately called my name. Pinnacle is a boxy top that can be made in a few different ways: either as a knit sweater or from woven fabric, each variation featuring those fantastic geometric seam lines down centre front. I’ve been on the look out for a loose, long sleeved woven top to wear with jeans for a while now, so Variation 2 with the higher neckline and pretty tie-back elbowed its way right to the top of my sewing queue. Fabric choice  This Pinnacle Top is made from “11pm”, a 100% washed linen in deepest navy and one of our l

Pattern review: Papercut Patterns Kochi Jacket in Nani Iro linen

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The kimono-inspired jacket trend has been around a few years, and we're the first to admit we are not always first aboard the trend-train. Bt slowly, slowly, these things can sneak up and then lo and behold, there's a kimono-shaped hole in our wardrobes we never noticed before. Papercut Kochi Jacket pattern line drawings Fiona first tried the Kochi Jacket by Papercut Patterns (released June 2017) in a 'wearable muslin' made from a variety of linen and light denim scraps. She decided the shape wasn't working for her and put it aside. (But she's currently working with another kimono-inspired pattern so stay tuned!) Then recently I needed to dress for a Japanese-themed dinner and borrowed Fiona's Kochi. What do you know, I loved it, and immediately wanted one of my own. There are several variations in the Kochi pattern: with or without neck band, lining, patch pockets and tie closure. I made the simplest, most pared-down version which has just four patt

Pattern Review: Closet Case Ginger Jeans

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It's fair to say we are  in the  midst of a denim phase at the moment. Here we are blogging about jeans making again. Sewing your own jeans is a fair undertaking, what with all the top-stitching and hardware, not to mention the fitting... it’s time consuming. But at the end? You feel like you’ve unlocked a new sewing achievement. Even better? YOU NEVER NEED TO GO JEANS SHOPPING AGAIN. These jeans were started in my head a couple of years ago. I gathered together pattern and fabric then promptly decided that I really wasn’t much of a jeans wearer anyhow, so into the stash they both went. Fast forward two years and I was becoming “jeans curious” again, missing the ease of a good pair of jeans in my wardrobe. So out came the pattern and fabric which had now marinated in my stash long enough for me to feel ok about using it for a wearable muslin. Jeans were on once more! Maybe I’d be a jeans-wearer after all? (And if not, I could use them in the shop as a sample, so nothin

Pattern Review - Merchant & Mills Francine Top

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Francine is a top & dress pattern from British company Merchant & Mills' recently released Denim Collection . It's a stylish and simple take on a workwear style, 'inspired by the fishermen of Brittany'. For the purposes of a true-to-the-pattern shop sample I made a size 12 top with no alterations.  This size was chosen based on my previous experience with Merchant & Mills patterns, but my measurements would put me in a size 14. Not all Merchant & Mills patterns are quite so generous in ease, as I discovered! If I was making this specifically for my own wearing I'd have made a muslin first, so please bear in mind the fit comments below are not intended as criticisms of the pattern, but as observations that may be helpful to others who make it. The process I find Merchant & Mills instructions to be quite good, but often a bit different to methods I'm used to. I don't mind this, and quite enjoy surrendering to the process,

Pattern Review: the Pippi Pinafore by Jennifer Lauren Handmade (with bonus Ostara Top)

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Personally I love the style of patterns by Jennifer Lauren Handmade of New Zealand. They combine a little vintage flair with everyday wearability. I had great success with the Laneway Dress last year and her latest release, the Pippi Pinafore , was impossible for me to resist. Pinafores, jumpsuits and overalls are my favourites! I bought the pattern immediately, and by the time Jennifer put out a call for pattern reviewers I had it sewn up and happily volunteered. ( Just for transparency: reviewers can be sent a free copy of the pattern but I had already purchased it for myself, and in any case Jennifer encourages entirely honest reviews. ) From the pattern:   With a fitted bib, deep patch pockets and fun side button fastening, Pippi is a fresh take on the classic overall dress, combining comfort with a sleek and playful silhouette. The Pippi Pinafore is your new favourite weekend dress — darts and gently curved sides shape the bib, creating a flattering silhouette for multip

Pattern review: Jedediah Pants by Thread Theory in Wide Wale Corduroy

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I've had the Jedediah pattern for a while now, but we've recently begun stocking the Thread Theory pattern range at The Drapery, so it was time for a review. I have made several pairs of the shorts for my teenage sons, with great success. This was my first time making full-length trousers from the pattern, but really the sewing is no more complicated because all the detail is above the knee! The 'brief' The 17y.o. wanted corduroy trousers and was very taken by our wide wale cord. I asked him to find some reference pictures for his 'vision' of the ideal shape, to help me pick the pattern. In the end, after some research, I went back to the good old Jedediahs because I knew they fit him well, and I thought a couple of minor adjustments would achieve the style he wanted: a bit baggy, yet fitted in the waist, and tapered to the ankle. What did I change? I changed the front pockets to a higher, curved jeans-style opening. If you would like to do this,