Friday, August 8, 2014

Deer and Doe Datura Blouse tutorial - Part 2 - Binding the Neckline

In our first post, we showed you how to construct the lined yoke. Now for the next step!

Part 2: Making and Applying the Neckline Binding.

As mentioned in the first post, you will need 7 - 8 lengths of the 1.5" wide bias at the length of the template from the pattern. If you can cut your bias in longer continuous strips, this is preferable, with less likelihood of a join ending up in a really visible spot.

The voile seemed a bit soft and fine on its own for the neckline binding, so I backed it with fine woven cotton fusible interfacing. The interfacing was also cut on the bias to help it curve around the neckline. You'll need a length equivalent to 3 pieces (joined) of the template bias for the neckline.

  
The pattern provides a template for a cardboard bias tape folder, which is charming (especially when labelled 'machine a biais', oh French language!). Slightly less charming but probably easier is the Clover bias tape maker - the red one is the correct size. 
Want to know more about bias tape making and applications? This is a great resource.

Open one edge of your folded bias and pin it right side facing yoke lining. Start with the end of the bias overlapping the neckline's centre back by half an inch or so, and the open edge of the bias aligned with the neckline edge.

 When you get to the front triangle shapes, continue carefully. In hindsight I probably should have tightened up the bias between the triangles just a little more than you see here.
 Pin, pin, pin.
 Start sewing in the crease, about an inch away from the centre back where you started pinning.
 Continue carefully, over the cutout sections - just keep going even when you're sewing on bias alone.
 Stop about an inch before the centre back.
Mark the centre back then mark both ends of the bias tape where they meet the centre back.
Match those marks, pin and sew the two ends together, right sides facing. Trim the ends, finger press the seam open and finish sewing the bias to the neckline.
Now, following the creases in the bias tape, fold the bias over to encase the neckline edge and pin carefully, just covering your first line of stitching. (You can see below where a join in the bias ended up in a less-than-ideal spot here, which doesn't really matter in this patterned fabric but would be more obvious in a plain.)
Slowly and carefully, stitch your bias down from the right side of the garment. If you have the option, use a presser foot that gives you very good visibility and control. I switched to the straight stitch foot here for this reason. Carefully use your fingers to keep guiding the bias into the right place. Don't be afraid to go back and unpick and try again if you're not happy with it. (I did at the start.) Your seam ripper is your friend, not your foe!
And there's your finished bound neckline!
Next and final post will be attaching bodice front and back and finishing your Datura.

See first post here.

- Jane & Fiona xx

1 comment:

  1. As a Newbie, I am always searching online for articles that can help me. Thank you

    Draperies

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