Friday, August 8, 2014

Deer and Doe Datura Blouse tutorial - Part 3 - Attaching Bodice and Finishing.

In Part 1 we took you through the construction of the bodice.
In Part 2 we showed you how to bind the neckline. And now, to complete your garment!

Part 3 - Attaching Bodice and Finishing

Take your front bodice piece and sew the bust darts: match the lines, pin and sew. On a fine fabric like this we recommend you don't do any reverse stitching at the 'pointy end' to secure your thread. Rather, leave long thread tails...
 ... and tie those thread tails in a secure double knot, then trim the ends. Press the dart fabric towards the bottom of the garment.
 As instructed, take each back bodice piece and fold the middle edge in twice along the marked lines, and stitch down to create each side of your button placket.
 Press, then overlap the back pieces so one placket sits directly on top of the other.
 Pin and then baste the plackets together with a long machine stitch, so for now they act as a single back bodice piece.
 Take your front bodice piece and pin, right sides together, to bottom edge of the front yoke outer. Keep the lining fabric out of the way.
 Sew bodice to yoke with a 5/8" seam allowance. (Make sure you have switched back to a regular stitch length after your basting stitch.)
 Press the seam up towards the inside of the yoke, and repeat the same process to join the back bodice and yoke.
 Now to sew the side seams. Align the front and back at the sides - open up the yoke lining so you can sew in a continuous line.
 I found this shape happening at the lining - it all ends up inside the seam allowance so pin, sew and believe in the pattern :) Repeat for the other side seam.
Finish your seams - I have overlocked and pressed the seam towards the back. The pattern suggests finishing each edge separately and pressing the seam allowances open, which would be a good idea to reduce bulk at the underarm area, if using thicker fabrics.


Fold the yoke lining back down into place and fold the edge under 5/8 inch, to meet the stitching line. Press in place with fingers or iron, and pin.
 From the inside, and well away from the edge, sew down with a long basting stitch.
 Then turn your garment right side out, return to a normal stitch length and carefully topstitch on the yoke side of the seam line.
 Unpick your basting stitches. (Having stitched them some distance from the edge should make it easy to identify and unpick the basting without disturbing your topstitching.)
 Now you're up to buttons! If you really have a passion for making buttonholes, go right ahead and make them. But they are in no way a functional part of this garment and personally, I would prefer to know that buttons on my lower back are going to stay put and not come undone without my realising. So I just sewed them straight on top through all layers. The pattern calls for 3 buttons but I added one more below these, at equal distance to the first three.
 If you have never used your sewing machine to sew on buttons, we highly recommend it's time you tried. Attach the button foot (something like you see below) and lower your feed dogs so the fabric doesn't move. Adjust the zigzag setting, carefully lowering your needle with the hand-wheel, until the needle neatly zigs and zags through both holes in the button. Then hit the pedal and sew that button until it looks good and secure. Next!
 Once all your buttons are sewn, unpick the basting stitches holding the two halves of the back bodice together.
 The final step is to bind the hem of your garment, using the rest of the bias strips (you will need at least 4 of the pattern template length, joined together, or equivalent). You will wrap the bias over the raw edge in the same way you bound the neckline. Binding with bias will create the best finish for the curved hem, because the bias tape is able to stretch and fit the contours far more easily than a regular turned hem.

Start with the right side of your bias facing the wrong side of your garment, edges aligned and with the end overlapping the back placket edge by about 1/2". Pin right around the hem, ensuring there is also overlap when you reach the other placket edge. Sew along the fold nearest the edge.
 At the placket edges, fold the end of the bias in to encase the raw edges before you wrap the bias over and to the front.
 Pin well, all the way around.
 Finish the other placket edge in the same way.
 Carefully topstitch on the right side.
 Give your finished garment a good press... congratulations, you've finished! Now try it on and be proud of your work!
 And here's a view of the lovely back button detail.
If you have any questions or comments, please leave us a comment. And enjoy your Datura!

See Part 1 of the tutorial here.
See Part 2 here.

- Jane & Fiona xx

9 comments:

  1. Thank you so much for posting this sew-along! I'm hoping to make a few of these blouses this summer, but didn't completely understand the directions. I think with the booklet and your sew-along, I'll be able to do it. Thank you!!!

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    1. Oh thank you, we really appreciate the feedback! It's a fabulous pattern, we hope you love it as much as we do :)

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  2. Hi Jane, thanks for the tutorial, I'm waiting for the pattern and I was a little afraid about sew it.
    How about the sizes? Usually I chose the size in the table and the final size is too whide and long because I have full breast but I'm little. Do you understand me?
    Sorry, I'm learning English,I'm begginer.

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    1. Hi Ana, I find the Deer and Doe sizing pretty accurate and one of the great things about their patterns is they give finished sizes of the garments too. So you can compare your measurements to the actual garment size. They are drafted for a C-D cup. If you take a larger bra size than that you might need to choose a size based on your other measurements (or your 'high bust' measurement which is around your chest directly under your arms) and make a full bust adjustment. It's really worth learning how to make a full bust adjustment (FBA), you can get a much better fit! I hope you enjoy the pattern, it's a good one.

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  3. I just discovered this tutorial after attempting the datura and having problems with the shoulder - the booklet instructions were very confusing and I'd consider myself an advanced intermediate sewer!! Thanks for posting these three tutorials - I'll now be willing to give the pattern a second go!!

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    1. Oh, that’s great, thanks for the feedback Lynda! I hope my instructions make sense. It took a while for it to dawn on me so that’s why I thought the tutorial might be helpful :)

      - Jane

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  4. Your Datura blouse looks lovely!

    Thank you SOOOO MUCH for this tutorial!

    It really helped me to make mine, even if I didn't make any special collar at all.
    Thanks to you, now I know how to sew the yokes! :-)

    I made a review on patternreviews.com and I put the link to your blog for this tutorial and also the name of your blog, of course. Is that ok ?

    Thanks again!

    Asaliha

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  5. Thanks so much for your feedback Asaliha! It's so rewarding to know this has helped you. You are very welcome to link to the tutorial. I'm glad you had a good result, it's such a lovely pattern!

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