Pattern Review: Papercut Sierra Jumpsuit
Hi, Jane here! The Papercut Sierra Jumpsuit has been on my to-make wishlist ever since its release last year.
Jumpsuits in general are tricky to test for fit until they're almost entirely sewn. So instead of a muslin, I made a properly finished garment that could be a shop sample if it didn't fit me well enough. Having a bit of Papercut experience under my belt, I was pretty confident in cutting the size M with a little bit of extra room added in the backside. (Ah, the things you end up casually writing in the name of sewing.) Here's how I added a little extra room in the 'seat':
That was good for size, with some expected bodice adjustments required for my final take-home version. Here's that first version, ain't she pretty?
|You can see this sample in the shop and even try it on if you like!|
This was one of those slightly baffling, origami-like makes where I just obediently followed each step to bring it all together. I love the finished garment, but 'straight out of the packet' on me there's significant armhole gape, especially at the front. (Pardon the rough photos that follow, in the name of sharing the sewing information!)
I think the cause is twofold: I have a short torso, and full bust. To improve the fit, I pinned out a dart in the front armhole, and a bit of length at the back armhole/strap.
I whipped up a quick & dirty bodice muslin to check the alterations and it was thumbs up and ready to go.
My final version is in a beautiful 100% cotton, yarn-dyed mid-weight by Haori of Taiwan, who make textiles in traditional Japanese styles. It's a bit heavier than the chambray, so I used a very lightweight cotton for the bodice lining. I didn't have a matching invisible zip, or the proper machine foot. Luck was on my side when I realised I could get in and out of the jumpsuit without using a zip, so I've just sewn up that side and it's good to go. (One step fewer when taking a loo break is always a win with a jumpsuit!)
|I don't know what I'm doing here but it shows you the back.|
|Look, no armhole gape!|
Like all good jumpsuits it's really comfortable to wear and there's no worry about unintended midriff exposure when sitting, bending or riding a bike. It's quite easy to get in and out of, and surprisingly easy to iron - a fact that always dramatically increases likelihood of wear in my wardrobe. If I want to wear it without a t-shirt in summer, I'll probably want to add a small snap at centre front just to help keep things tidy.
The side seam pockets have an unusual insertion method that helps keep them sitting towards the front, and allows for the zip insertion (which I didn't need). They're a decent size for hands, hankies and small objects, and shouldn't stretch out because the front opening is interfaced.
PATTERN: Sierra Jumpsuit by Papercut Patterns
FABRIC: Hemp/Organic Cotton Chambray, Haori 100% Cotton
SIZE: M with added bum-space, extra length in ties and bodice adjustments as detailed above.
The Sierra feels a bit dressier and more put-together than other jumpsuits I have made.
Tall people should note they may need to add length. I'm 5ft 3 / 163cm and consider myself short in the torso. While I did take a smidgen of bodice length out at the strap, this is *just* right on me and others may find they need to add length in both bodice and leg.
A step not noted on the pattern but worth the effort is to staystitch around the neck and armhole edges that aren't reinforced with interfacing, because they're handled quite a lot during construction and could stretch out.
Altogether a fun pattern to make and wear.
Check out some other thoughtful reviews of this pattern, including some similar notes to mine, at I Sew Therefore I Am and Diary of a Chainstitcher.
- Jane xx