Tuesday, May 5, 2015

Grainline Cascade Duffle Coat: progress.

I've managed to find a few good chunks of time to devote to the Cascade Duffle Coat. And I have to say, it's a bit addictive watching it all come together.
Between the written instructions and the photographic sewalong on the Grainline blog, there's all the information a first-time coat sewist could want.
Before long you have something that's starting to look like a garment!

 The toggle closures are the detail that really makes a duffle coat a duffle coat. I went for the make-your-own option; partly because I didn't like my chances of finding ready-made, and partly because it sounded like fun. New crafty accomplishment? Yes please.

The toggle buttons came from The Button Bar in Adelaide Arcade, which is a wall-to-wall button treasure trove. They have quite a few kinds of toggles. I only had a 15 minute park or else I could have been there all day! These ones are made of horn ('not endangered', said the tube) (actually now I have a good look at them I'm pretty sure they're plastic, which would definitely not be endangered, heh, but in any case I probably feel a bit better about that).

We have one kind of wooden toggles at The Drapery, but they're black, which didn't seem right on this coat.

I sourced scrap leather and leather lacing from Adelaide Leather & Saddlery Supplies which is another local Aladdin's Cave of goodness and makes me want to learn how to make ALL the leather things.

The lacing was stuck down with a touch of PVA glue - not necessarily recommended but worked fine for me - before the closures were sewn on as per the instructions.
 Front and back joined. I tried it on at this stage and really, really wanted to make another version that's sleeveless. Jen from Grainline has promised this as an upcoming how-to blog post.
 Check out below how beautifully this wool 'eases' for the setting in of sleeves!
 And here we have the completed coat shell and lining. The lining is Liberty 'Oxford' Tana Lawn.
 Really the only snag I have hit in the whole construction is when I came to the first step of attaching the lining. I found I couldn't pin the lining and outer together as required because the seam allowance at the centre front had been caught in the stitching of the toggle leather.
 However, a little very careful snipping and the seam allowance was free, and the rest of the lining process happened by the book. So satisfying.
 Amazing how this strange crab-shaped arrangement can be flipped about to become a completed coat.
Yes, it is actually finished now, hooray! Photos soon.

- Jane & Fiona xx

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