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Showing posts with the label denim

Pattern Review: Pattern Fantastique Calyx Smock

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When Pattern Fantastique released the Calyx pattern late last year, I suspected it would be only a matter of time before one passed through my sewing machine. So tempting were its nice deep hem facing, raglan sleeves and loose, heat-wave friendly cut. Another PF pattern, the Aeolian , has been a firm favourite of mine (ahem, 6 and counting…) and so the Calyx called as an appealing alternative. From the front. Fabric Inspired by Nita Jane (owner of PF) and her talk of a denim Calyx for layering, I chose to make this version in some of our 6oz washed cotton denim. It’s a lightweight fabric that has good drape but is still quite sturdy. Certainly not the floaty tencel I had originally thought I might make this in, but I guess that leaves options for next time! And there will be a next time. When I first saw this pattern I could only imagine it being made up in something super lightweight & very drapery (tencel, washed linen, cupro) because of all the gathering at t...

Pattern Review: Closet Case Ginger Jeans

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It's fair to say we are  in the  midst of a denim phase at the moment. Here we are blogging about jeans making again. Sewing your own jeans is a fair undertaking, what with all the top-stitching and hardware, not to mention the fitting... it’s time consuming. But at the end? You feel like you’ve unlocked a new sewing achievement. Even better? YOU NEVER NEED TO GO JEANS SHOPPING AGAIN. These jeans were started in my head a couple of years ago. I gathered together pattern and fabric then promptly decided that I really wasn’t much of a jeans wearer anyhow, so into the stash they both went. Fast forward two years and I was becoming “jeans curious” again, missing the ease of a good pair of jeans in my wardrobe. So out came the pattern and fabric which had now marinated in my stash long enough for me to feel ok about using it for a wearable muslin. Jeans were on once more! Maybe I’d be a jeans-wearer after all? (And if not, I could use them in the shop as a sample, so n...

Pattern Review - Merchant & Mills Francine Top

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Francine is a top & dress pattern from British company Merchant & Mills' recently released Denim Collection . It's a stylish and simple take on a workwear style, 'inspired by the fishermen of Brittany'. For the purposes of a true-to-the-pattern shop sample I made a size 12 top with no alterations.  This size was chosen based on my previous experience with Merchant & Mills patterns, but my measurements would put me in a size 14. Not all Merchant & Mills patterns are quite so generous in ease, as I discovered! If I was making this specifically for my own wearing I'd have made a muslin first, so please bear in mind the fit comments below are not intended as criticisms of the pattern, but as observations that may be helpful to others who make it. The process I find Merchant & Mills instructions to be quite good, but often a bit different to methods I'm used to. I don't mind this, and quite enjoy surrendering to the process,...

Pattern Review: The Calendar Dress by Frankie & Ray in Japanese Military Chambray

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That's quite a mouthful of a blog post title, isn't it? But when it comes to pattern reviews, very descriptive probably beats snappy headline any day. **NB: post edited to add - pattern errata alert from designer: front panel of dress is 3cm too long... we advise cutting as-is then trimming before hemming** We were eager to try out the brand new Calendar Dress by Australian designer-maker Jo Dunsmuir of Frankie & Ray . Jo's other releases the Box Top , Anna Knickers and West Coast Skirt have really hit the mark as wardrobe basics, and are excellent for beginners onwards.   (Apologies, it's my rubbish photos, not the printing, or your eyes.) The Calendar Dress is a classic 'smock dress' style which can be made sleeveless or with a mid-length sleeve, designed for easy rolling up. It has magnificently large, lined patch pockets and a gentle gather under the front bodice, and falls straight at the back. Neckline is bias-bound and the dress pull...

In The Folds / Peppermint Jumpsuit in Japanese Selvedge Denim

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I posted about my first version of the Jumpsuit pattern designed by Emily of In The Folds for Peppermint Magazine, back last spring. I've had a tremendous amount of wear from it, both on its own and layered over t-shirts. (As an aside the Outback Wife barkcloth is holding up extremely well.) The idea of a denim version has been building in my mind's eye for a while. And you know how we like to selflessly test out our new fabrics for you, don't you? The new Japanese 'Nep' Selvedge Denim wasn't going to test itself. So a denim jumpsuit came to be. A few minor changes make this version more kind of overalls/workwear style: Zip changed from centre back seam to centre front (I used a shorter zip which ends at about my navel, as the roominess of the jumpsuit still makes it easy to get on and off).  Snap tab added at top of zip. More patch pockets, five in total. Topstitching on leg inseam, neckline and armholes. Small triangles of leather reinforce stre...

Pattern Review: Closet Case Morgan Jeans

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This post is to celebrate the fact we now stock Closet Case patterns at The Drapery, including the Ginger and Morgan Jeans , and also beautiful 11oz Japanese 'Nep' Selvedge Denim . Mmmm... look: Of course we love to trial new sewing patterns for you so here's my experience with the Morgan Jeans. I'm not even much of a jeans wearer so how did it happen? I think it was probably  The Refashioners 2016  (a sewing challenge to refashion old jeans) that sent me down a one-way path to denim fascination. I mean, I'd always liked denim, but the beauty of aged and repurposed denim and the construction of jeans was quite beguiling. From there I delved into visible mending of denim in the Japanese 'boro' style (check out this inspiring Instagram account ), and repaired and altered a pair of my husband's old jeans for my own casual wear. And I happened upon Heddels , a website devoted to the beauty of high quality denim and related gear. Loads of great informat...