Tuesday, July 28, 2020

Pattern Review: Clyde Jumpsuit by Elizabeth Suzann

Many sewists have drooled over the garments by Elizabeth Suzann, a clothing brand from Nashville USA. The company has recently closed due to the effects of Covid, but was run on extremely admirable business ethics, including all-local production, all natural fibres, diversity of size and colour in models, and producing only to order. You can read more about the company at its website, which is still up at the moment.

The brand's classic, comfortable styles are being released as free patterns, with a request that if you are able, you donate to charity (several suggested - I donated to The Loveland Foundation). I've just learnt that the Dropbox where the instruction-less patterns were shared has been closed. You can read more about the future plans for these patterns on Instagram here. Credit and thanks to Instagrammers @minimalistmachinist @thestoryclubpdx and @mombasics for their work on preparing and sharing the pattern files.

I've long admired the Clyde Jumpsuit, so I leapt on the opportunity to try it and it doesn't disappoint! In case it helps anyone who already nabbed the downloads, I'll write down a few notes that may be helpful in the absence of written instructions.


SELECTING SIZE
I found the measurement/sizing charts at the ES website, and used these to determine my size. I chose size L (measurements Bust 39 Waist 33 Hip 43 matched mine exactly, wow) and the Short version since I am 5ft 3/163cm. I found this size to be just right for me. I was a little concerned it was actually a bit short in the torso at first (and I consider myself short-waisted) but it loosened up after some wear. 

SEAM ALLOWANCE VARIES
The seam lines are drawn on the pattern, and seam allowance varies as follows:
Main construction seams: 1/2 inch
Pocket tops: 3/8 inch
Binding at neck and arms: 1/4 inch

PRINT IN COLOUR IF YOU CAN
I had my pattern printed A0 size. I didn't specify colour and it came out B&W. With all the overlapping size outlines and seam lines, it's not easy to pick your line. Since I was using the largest size in the document (there is another document with the rest of the size range) I found my line without too much trouble, but another size within the mass of lines would have been tricky.

BINDING NECK AND ARMHOLES
The binding method I used: fold the bias strips in half with right side out, and sew to the right side of the garment with all three raw edges lined up, at 1/4" seam allowance. Then press all raw edges to the inside. Press again to turn the folded edge of the bias inside as well, rolling a little to the inside and covering all the raw edges. Stitch down along the edge of the bias.

THE CLYDE SHIMMY
The Clyde Jumpsuit walks that careful line balancing decent coverage if worn alone, and enough room to wriggle in and out! It has no buttons, zip or snaps which makes for a very clean finish and easy construction. But the wriggle is real. I am reliably informed that this is the 'Clyde Shimmy' and now I think of it fondly, haha! After a day of wear, my heavy canvas Clyde has become easy enough to get in and out of without having to dislocate an elbow. It wouldn't be difficult to add in some sort of closure if this is helpful to you.

LABEL THE BACK
I still need to do this because I have put the whole garment on back-to-front several times!

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS
For my size I used 2m x 150cm wide canvas. Layout pictured below (I forgot to put the bias strips on there but they also fit within this layout, up at the top right.) This is a designer remnant canvas and there's just a little bit left as I write. 

The Clyde Jumpsuit would also be awesome in denim, and super-comfy in one with just a bit of give like our Everblue from Italy. A great trans-seasonal fabric would be our cotton/linen Crumple Texture Canvas, or for summer the cotton Crumple Texture Shirting

If you're on Instagram you might like to check out the hashtag #ESmadebyme for more garments made possible by this generous pattern release, and to find out more about the future of these patterns.

Here's Clyde in action.











- Jane xx











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