tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-40506204696558858922024-03-16T11:52:04.570-07:00THE DRAPERY BLOGPattern reviews and sewing news from The Drapery, South Australia.Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.comBlogger204125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-27617657849806142282021-11-16T20:12:00.004-08:002021-11-21T14:45:17.133-08:00Our blog has moved!<p><span style="font-size: large;">We're now blogging on our website at <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/blogs/pattern-reviews-news">thedrapery.com.au</a></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Some posts may remain here as an archive, and we are also (gradually) transferring many old posts across to the new blog. We hope you'll join us there!</span></p>Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-43928119525138955142021-09-07T00:35:00.000-07:002021-09-07T00:35:47.683-07:00Pattern review: Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress in Lyocell/Cotton Sateen<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xwGuFI8Ijww/YTcPmHP4CUI/AAAAAAAAIa4/OG5_xt5fLb0gjIcbXStAw-y1JBvcbTfnwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/D787B950-D9C2-478F-8B43-77650379599B_1_201_a.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xwGuFI8Ijww/YTcPmHP4CUI/AAAAAAAAIa4/OG5_xt5fLb0gjIcbXStAw-y1JBvcbTfnwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/D787B950-D9C2-478F-8B43-77650379599B_1_201_a.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><br />French pattern company Deer and Doe released the <a href="https://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/en/sewing-patterns/65-myosotis-dress-pattern.html" target="_blank">Myosotis Dress</a> in 2018, at the forefront of the ruffles'n'gathers trend. It had a lot of love back then, but despite our best intentions the pattern never made it to the top of our sewing list at the time.<p></p><p>Deer and Doe has since released several more 'fancy' dress patterns, which is why I browsed their shop when I wanted to make a new dress for when I perform with my lovely community choir. I hovered over the recent <a href="https://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/en/sewing-patterns/108-orchidee-dress-pattern.html" target="_blank">Orchidée pattern</a> but ultimately was drawn back to the Myosotis. The semi-fitted bodice has more room for drawing in a lungful of air, mid-song! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lI8cen8T-3Y/YTcP8U3NIhI/AAAAAAAAIbA/a8KnlJzPkyosbKUaw5N4HnArVGVwWzaRACLcBGAsYHQ/s850/Screen%2BShot%2B2021-09-07%2Bat%2B4.38.05%2Bpm.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="780" data-original-width="850" height="260" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lI8cen8T-3Y/YTcP8U3NIhI/AAAAAAAAIbA/a8KnlJzPkyosbKUaw5N4HnArVGVwWzaRACLcBGAsYHQ/w283-h260/Screen%2BShot%2B2021-09-07%2Bat%2B4.38.05%2Bpm.png" width="283" /></a></div><br /><p>The sateen fabric is one I specifically earmarked for a choir frock when we ordered it. Fiona and I both immediately made 'ooh, aah' noises over it when we saw and felt the samples. That's when we know we're onto a good thing.</p><p>A beautiful Japanese-made blend of 60% Lyocell (sustainably produced viscose from wood pulp) and 40% cotton, it's tightly woven with amazing weight and drape, and a subtle sheen. Without being fussy or delicate, it quietly says 'special'. (We also had it in an amazing golden Wattle colour, sold out but on reorder.)</p><p><br /></p><p>After being a conscientious human and making a muslin of the bodice to check fit, I made a narrow shoulder adjustment. I was looking for a longer sleeve, however the ruffled option was a couple of ruffles too far for me. So I lengthened and slightly flared the sleeve, then gathered into a narrow cuff band (probably channelling the Orchidée pattern). The rest was plain sailing. There seem to be as many different methods for attaching collars/collar stands as there are days of the week. This one wasn't my favourite, so I'd use another way if I made the pattern again. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UnNo8StCbVY/YTcQU6owPyI/AAAAAAAAIbI/LG_seLdj-3YMzxt_YjpJIaUfsd5NW24jwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/84C08E1F-3F2E-476E-A9C3-A386C1F1A692_1_201_a.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1324" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UnNo8StCbVY/YTcQU6owPyI/AAAAAAAAIbI/LG_seLdj-3YMzxt_YjpJIaUfsd5NW24jwCLcBGAsYHQ/w207-h320/84C08E1F-3F2E-476E-A9C3-A386C1F1A692_1_201_a.jpeg" width="207" /></a></div><br />The photo on the left shows how I trialled a much-lengthened main skirt tier. There was a sombre orchestral vibe that I wasn't really digging (does my face give it away?), and I chopped a chunk back out again. Much better.<p></p><p>Black is not my norm, but I really do love this dress so there's a possibility it may be worn outside of choir duties. Especially since the performance I was aiming for was cancelled (thanks, COVID) and who knows when we might hit the stage again?</p><p>In any case I think I'll be making a short sleeved Myosotis for summer - it'd be a winner in double gauze.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><u><br /></u></div><u><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9wNws3haIck/YTcRfa5P6_I/AAAAAAAAIbQ/CBf-3lRzgrwqpGpyz3Nc1lw2XJVIT0McwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/DD903948-6B29-4476-8FB7-3259AC137B17_1_201_a.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9wNws3haIck/YTcRfa5P6_I/AAAAAAAAIbQ/CBf-3lRzgrwqpGpyz3Nc1lw2XJVIT0McwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/DD903948-6B29-4476-8FB7-3259AC137B17_1_201_a.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view showing bodice darts</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S4dZO3UzzK8/YTcRqGOrNEI/AAAAAAAAIbY/9cL2LjOrzg0gDS71Q41OPlnK7nlpHbb5ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/47EAB40F-FB07-4E0B-A834-8C7EE763A6EB_1_201_a.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S4dZO3UzzK8/YTcRqGOrNEI/AAAAAAAAIbY/9cL2LjOrzg0gDS71Q41OPlnK7nlpHbb5ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/47EAB40F-FB07-4E0B-A834-8C7EE763A6EB_1_201_a.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It has pockets! And it twirls!</td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /></b></u><p></p><p><u><b>SUMMARY</b></u></p><p><b>PATTERN: </b><a href="https://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/en/sewing-patterns/65-myosotis-dress-pattern.html" target="_blank">Myosotis Dress by Deer and Doe</a> - sizes EU 34 - 52 (Hip 86 - 122cm/33.75 - 48")</p><p>FABRIC: <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/60-lyocell-tencel-40-cotton-mid-weight-sateen-made-in-japan-black?_pos=2&_sid=cb0e60641&_ss=r" target="_blank">Lyocell/Cotton mid-weight sateen, made in Japan</a> </p><p><b>SIZE: </b>44</p><p><b>ADJUSTMENTS: </b>Narrow shoulder adjustment, created longer sleeve gathered into cuff, slightly lengthened main skirt tier.</p><p><b>COMMENTS: </b>A lovely pattern that still feels very current. The collar, buttons and bodice darts elevate the Myositis beyond some of the simpler loose summer dress patterns out there, if you're looking for a little more detail to go with your comfort. Oh, and nice roomy side seam pockets are included. Highly likely to make again.</p><p>- Jane xx</p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p><br /></p>Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-59991784494856340542019-10-31T22:30:00.001-07:002019-11-24T16:01:23.853-08:00Pattern Review - The Diago Top by Pauline Alice (in linen, three times!)Spanish pattern designer Pauline Alice has recently released several new patterns, and this one, the <a href="https://www.paulinealicepatterns.com/en/tops/106-diago-blouse.html">Diago Top</a>, caught our eye for summer. It's a very simple dolman-sleeved top with a slight high-low hem and stitched down facings. Our new linens came along, and some hot weather, and the deal was sealed.<br />
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The Diago (available only as <a href="https://www.paulinealicepatterns.com/en/tops/106-diago-blouse.html">downloadable PDF</a> from her website) is designed with beginner sewists in mind. The instructions are not quite as hand-holdy as they could be for absolute beginners but that shouldn't put anyone off, either. This is a lovely pattern with a forgiving fit, nice finishing like the faced hem, and thorough steps like French seams, clipping and understitching.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Can anyone tell I was fighting off a cold and had an afternoon nap in this outfit? <br />
Sometimes you have to go with messy reality or things will never be blogged.</td></tr>
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And for a not completely crumpled version, here's Fiona!<br />
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<b><br />Fabric hungry?</b><br />
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The pattern, in my size (44), calls for 2.1m of 150cm wide fabric. That's a lot for a simple top! The layout shows even the little neck facings cut on the centre fold of 150cm wide fabric. Maybe because it's designed for beginners and this makes it really easy... but rather wasteful! I cut the pink one from 1.5m and the checked one from 1.6m (a little extra for pattern matching). The hem facings line up directly under the front and back body, and the neck facings cut easily from the scraps at the sides.<br />
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The pattern is too wide for 110cm wide fabric. However you could use it if you don't mind shortening the sleeves a little. You'd probably need to allow an extra 20cm or so for the neck facings in this case.<br />
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<b>Staystitch the neckline</b><br />
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This is not suggested in the instructions but I recommend, if your fabric is at all shifty. The other step I'd add is to trim down down the seam allowances after the first step of French seaming. Oh and if you like, pop a little label (<a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*Kylie%20and%20the%20Machine*">Labels by KATM</a>) in the seam.<br />
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<b>Hem facing tip</b><br />
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In case you get spatially confused by curved hem facings like I do, let me save you some pain and say <i>MATCH THE CURVE SHAPES</i>. In garment sewing there is often fiddly pinning of opposite curves (e.g. at sleeve caps) so they lie correctly when opened out. This is not the case for facings, which are turned back. Okay. Now I've written that down I hope I never have to unpick a clipped and understitched hem facing again!<br />
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<b>Simple but worth it</b><br />
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The Diago is beautifully loose and comfortable and those dolman sleeves are the kind of airy fit I want on a hot day. I feel the proportions are spot on, and the hem hits perfectly so I'm covered but not swamped. These are the reasons we are more than happy to pay an independent designer for her work in creating something apparently so simple. Simple, but so right!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Subtle high-low hem. Shorts are an iteration of the Papercut Palisades as I went through fitting and pocket adjustments.</td></tr>
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<b><u>SUMMARY</u></b><br />
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<b>PATTERN:</b> <a href="https://www.paulinealicepatterns.com/en/tops/106-diago-blouse.html">Diago Top by Pauline Alice</a> (available as pdf only from her website)<br />
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<b>FABRIC:</b> Lithuanian washed linens: <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-washed-softened-seaglass-check?_pos=1&_sid=d8410209b&_ss=r">Seaglass Check</a> 1.6m, <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-washed-softened-sorbet?_pos=1&_sid=d3a009d90&_ss=r">Sorbet</a> 1.5m, <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-washed-softened-granny-smith?_pos=1&_sid=d759246e0&_ss=r">Granny Smith</a> 1.5m.<br />
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<b>SIZE:</b> 44, as per measurements, check also finished garment measurements given.<br />
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<b>COMMENTS:</b> If you can, get this printed at the A0 copy shop size. I pieced together the A4 and the margins/overlaps were quite large - it seemed to use a lot more paper than it should have.<br />
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Measure pattern pieces for your size; you can probably use less fabric than pattern states.<br />
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<i>EDIT: after quite a few wears, I would recommend if you French seam as the pattern suggests, go over the last pass of the curved underarm seam a couple of times with a small stitch length for strength. I've repaired a few popped stitches there.</i><br />
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Make one or several in our <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/collections/lithuanian-linens-summer-2019-20">Lithuanian linens</a>, you won't regret it!<br />
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- Jane & Fiona xx<br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-78937510952849672682019-09-23T17:40:00.000-07:002019-09-23T17:40:02.954-07:00Pattern Review: the Kalle Shirt Dress by Closet Case, in Lithuanian Natural Linen<a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/closet-case-kalle-shirt-shirtdress-pattern?_pos=1&_sid=6f41c785e&_ss=r">The Kalle pattern by Closet Case</a> has been around for a couple of years now. The dress or shirt has a roomy fit with dropped shoulder and no bust dart, a lined back yoke and dramatic curved hem. It's lovely, and we've been meaning to make it up for ages.<br />
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By the way, the pattern name is pronounced 'Kal - ee' (rhymes with Sally). I checked that with pattern designer Heather Lou when it was first released. It was driving me crazy not knowing how to say it, either aloud or in my head! You can imagine how I felt reading the first Harry Potter book many years ago. Her-mee-ohn? Herm-yon? Hermi-oh-nee?<br />
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The Kalle has a fair few minor variations that can be mixed and matched as you please:<br />
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This Kalle, made in our <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-mid-weight-natural-flax?_pos=3&_sid=0423a61fe&_ss=r">heavyweight natural Lithuanian linen</a>, is a shop sample. You can swing by and have a look and even try it on if you like. It's a straight size 12, dress length, in 'popover' style with box pleat and band collar.<br />
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Sewing went really smoothly and includes some intermediate techniques like a lined yoke, placket and collar attachment, with good instructions and diagrams. There's even a <a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/kalle-shirtdress-pattern-sewalong">full online sewalong</a> on the Closet Case blog if you need any extra tips and photos. When attaching the sleeve cuffs I switched steps around a bit so my final step was to attach the cuff from the outside with topstitching, which I find more accurate than the suggested method which was topstitching from the outside in order to catch the unstitched inside edge. The shaping of the cuff at the underarm seam is a really nice touch that helps stop the armholes from becoming a window-to-your-underwear.<br />
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I used the suggested flat felled seam finish for the side seams which means that the entire garment has clean finishes inside and out.<br />
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The lined yoke is attached with the 'burrito method' and I'd strongly recommend that unless your fabric is super-stable, you stay-stitch the neckline to stop it stretching out during the step where the whole garment is pulled through the neck opening. This <i>is</i> mentioned in the instructions, but not until <i>after</i> the burrito part which is, in my opinion, where it's most required.<br />
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And here she is on a human:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kCt0lDEuqYQ/XYLJq0q3c9I/AAAAAAAAHso/Qc-zMJnqYtQfq3KYZMfiw-OEZvz56shFACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/fullsizeoutput_5600.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kCt0lDEuqYQ/XYLJq0q3c9I/AAAAAAAAHso/Qc-zMJnqYtQfq3KYZMfiw-OEZvz56shFACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/fullsizeoutput_5600.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With half a day's worth of linen-y rumpledness</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The back yoke and pleat create shaping and visual interest</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nQm7m9Ou3N8/XYLJqXV8mVI/AAAAAAAAHsg/MNbUzBzY69M_eGx8jC48WD26m01nwo0nACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/fullsizeoutput_5603.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nQm7m9Ou3N8/XYLJqXV8mVI/AAAAAAAAHsg/MNbUzBzY69M_eGx8jC48WD26m01nwo0nACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/fullsizeoutput_5603.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There's that swooping hem</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And here you can see a bit of the movement of this heavyweight linen even after only minimal wash & wear</td></tr>
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The button placement as marked sits pretty much above and below the fullest part of my bust, unsurprisingly creating a bit of gaping in the middle. For the photos I put a safety pin in behind to hold it closed. I'm going to leave this one as-is for the shop, but if making again for myself (quite likely), I'd simply double the number of buttons, to secure where it pulls a bit. I'd suggest you try your Kalle on with the button markings pinned closed before committing to buttonholes, to make sure you're happy with the placement on you.<br />
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I've never sewn a garment in this heavyweight linen before but it was great to work with. It has a bit of shrinkage on first wash so (of course) please, please pre-wash. Due to the thickness I did a fair bit of grading of seams where several layers were coming together. I like the earthy, rustic vibe of this fabric. I don't want to sound too woo-woo about it but it's easy to feel more connected to the living plants that made this simple, lovely fibre.<br />
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It looks pretty creasy in the photos but we like to embrace that about linen - and this is the fabric after only one pre-wash and one garment wash. I can imagine it developing a lovely worn-in look and even greater softness over time. It also makes <i>the best</i> teatowels and yes, I'm fine with wearing the same fabric I wipe my dishes with, haha!<br />
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If making again I would consider how to add a functional pocket or two. I think hidden side seam pockets (or just one) would be best so as to preserve the standout features of chest pocket and curved hem.<br />
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<b>In summary</b>:<br />
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<b>PATTERN:</b> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/closet-case-kalle-shirt-shirtdress-pattern?_pos=1&_sid=6f41c785e&_ss=r">Kalle Shirt + Shirtdress by Closet Case Patterns</a><br />
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<b>FABRIC:</b> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-mid-weight-natural-flax?_pos=3&_sid=0423a61fe&_ss=r">100% Linen, Mid-Heavy Weight, Natural Flax, made in Lithuania</a>, 1.8m<br />
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<b>SIZE:</b> 12, no alterations (current body measurements for reference: bust 39" waist 33" hip 43" height 5'3")<br />
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<b>COMMENTS:</b> A minimalist design dressed up with some statement shaping, easy to fit and comfortable to wear. It's easy to see why Kalle is such a popular pattern that has become a favourite repeat-make for many sewists. I am pretty keen to make myself one to keep, probably in our <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-washed-softened-blue-jean?_pos=1&_sid=eff0ccc99&_ss=r">Blue Jean linen.</a><br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-9116445774387865612019-09-12T19:03:00.000-07:002019-09-12T19:06:14.351-07:00Pattern Review: The Assembly Line Box Pleat Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Please don't mind us as we slowly sew our way through every Assembly Line pattern on our shelves. After great success with </span><a href="https://draperyfinefabrics.blogspot.com/2019/07/pattern-review-puff-shirt-by-assembly.html" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Puff Shirt</a><span id="goog_270252783" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><span id="goog_270252784" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, </span><a href="https://draperyfinefabrics.blogspot.com/2019/06/pattern-review-hoodie-dress-by-assembly.html" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hoodie Dress</a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, the </span><a href="https://draperyfinefabrics.blogspot.com/2019/08/pattern-review-assembly-line-wrap.html" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wrap Jacket</a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> and Almost Long Trousers (unblogged) we’re kicking on with the Box Pleat Dress.</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A note about these patterns. We sometimes hear from customers that they find the price of the Assembly Line patterns surprising. At $38 a pop (that’s everywhere, not just us by the way!), they are indeed pricier than the average of $30 for other indie patterns - so we understand the surprise. But frankly, we have trouble keeping up with the demand for these, despite the higher price point. We suspect that’s because these patterns are classic, simple shapes with some extra added interest. The kind of wearable things you can sew a few times to get your money’s worth. Plus they’re printed on nice sturdy thick paper. All this makes for a most satisfying sewing experience.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So! The Box Pleat Dress. It’s an a-line frock with a gently exaggerated sleeve and - hence the name - a nice big box pleat at the back.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I’ve seen a number of these made up and they often fit quite loosely all over, but I decided that I wanted mine to fit more snugly - at least across the shoulders. So I used the finished garment size to give me a good 5-6cm of ease in the bust and cut accordingly.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This version of the Box Pleat Dress is made from <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/55-linen-45-cotton-essex-yarn-dyed-chambray-by-robert-kaufman-espresso?_pos=1&_sid=e96f4af47&_ss=r">Robert Kaufman Essex blend (55% linen + 45% cotton) in ‘Espresso’</a>. It’s a light to medium weight fabric that holds the a-line on this frock nicely, not to mention the shape of those sleeves. As the linen component of this fabric softens with wash & wear, I expect the drama to die down, somewhat. :)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Since Assembly Line patterns only give quantity suggestions for 140cm wide fabric I needed extra to accomodate for the 110cm wide Kaufman. So, for any of you wishing to sew the size M, here’s a PSA: this dress used 2.8m of an 110cm wide fabric (as opposed to the recommended 2.1m for 140cm wide).</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sleeve-tastic!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As with other Assembly Line patterns, the drafting is reliable and the directions are clear. The Box Pleat dress has a slight high-low back hem which is separated by a split, all with lovely wide mitred corners which were very pleasing to sew.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">pockets in action</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For a fairly simple silhouette, there are a few things that lift this frock above your simple A-Line dress. There’s those sleeves for one. Then there’s the nice spacious side-seam pockets, and some lovely feature topstitching down centre front. For my money though the best take away trick I learned from this pattern was the triangular support stitching that lies under the box pleat. It really makes the pleat feel nice and, well, trustworthy. That's important since said pleat sits right at the middle upper-back where seams get subjected to lots of movement and stress.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">creases courtesy of a days wear </td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There’s a definite whiff of Gilead about this frock (I’d be careful not to make it in red!) Its exaggerated a-line and sleeves make it incredibly roomy - which is fine by me, but may not be for everyone! A relaxed washed linen would drape nicely and soften those lines if it’s too much for you. The Box Pleat Dress is super comfortable and layers well. A solid Spring frock, and it layers well too. I think I’ll be reaching for this quite a bit.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Fiona xx</span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The Assembly Line Box Pleat Dress pattern can be found <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/box-pleat-dress-the-assembly-line-patterns?_pos=3&_sid=c211897b8&_ss=r">here</a>.</span></span></div>
fionahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11526567415058476429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-26430100444536420082019-08-27T20:20:00.001-07:002019-08-27T20:21:09.786-07:00Pattern Review: Maven Patterns Rochester top<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I’m always on the look out for woven top patterns that have a couple of interesting details. Something that can be worn with jeans that feels slightly less casual than a boxy top. Far be it from me to diss the boxy top - my cupboard is full of them - but, bless them, they are not for all occasions. </span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Frankly, the Rochester pattern (named for Jane Eyre, surely?) had me at that neckline. I found the narrow elastic casing really appealing, and you may be relieved to hear that it doesn't sit *too* high around the throat, either (never a comfortable feeling). The elastic casing can be set right at the neckline edge as I have done, or 15mm lower for a spot of added neck frill. I love how the gather cleverly forgoes the need for bust darts and additional closures. But wait, there’s more! The Rochester also has a nifty pleat in the back plus a nice wide curved hem facing. It’s a dress pattern too, with inseam pockets and a waist tie.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I chose <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-washed-softened-slate?_pos=5&_sid=2965b6178&_ss=r">our washed linen in Slate</a>, which is super soft and has a lovely amount of drape for the swingy hem. Next time, I’m tempted to try one in <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*liberty*">Liberty</a>, or perhaps some <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/collections/wovens/Double-Gauze">double or triple gauze</a>.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Construction</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">No dramas here. The pattern instructions are chock-full of extra details, hints and links to tutorials to get the details just right. All the notches match up and the set-in sleeves both went in perfectly first time with no puckers (win!) More on the shoulders later, though…</span></span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qEhsgUlgypM/XWXrycn0AaI/AAAAAAAAAsI/pFEZAtsc_yAVEojpVz4wZ3ANSY6zjibxQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_7289.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qEhsgUlgypM/XWXrycn0AaI/AAAAAAAAAsI/pFEZAtsc_yAVEojpVz4wZ3ANSY6zjibxQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_7289.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">loving the wide curved faced hem sick</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Sizing</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Despite all the extra information included in this pattern I found selecting my size slightly confusing. There is a finished garment size chart but unfortunately the bust measurement (which is all you really need too take into account when fitting this pattern) is taken with the back pleat closed - so that’s roughly 10cm of ease unaccounted for. For the record I chose the sized closest to my bust measurement and it worked out fine. Be aware that the size range is standard: the largest size offered here is an 18 with 42 inch bust and 46 inch hips, although considering that back pleat there is a lot of extra ease included within that range. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Fit</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So. Overall I’m thrilled with the fit - the edge of the shoulder hits right where it should and the extra ease created by the back pleat makes this a comfy but not too puffy shirt. All good! That is until I lift my arms and… cue a whole bunch of excess fabric pooling at my shoulder tips. Waaah! </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://draperyfinefabrics.blogspot.com/2017/01/pattern-review-papercut-patterns.html">The steeply-drafted armscye strikes again.</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Next time I make this, I’ll swap the arm hole and sleeve head with one from another pattern that works well for me to get around this problem. This shape arm block must work well for some people, but not for either Jane or I unfortunately! Perhaps for you it will present no issues… garment drafting is fascinating like that.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KHnL7VoBWbs/XWXri8VWZ9I/AAAAAAAAAr8/J6dK7-bZnAUyNrRj0rc9lJstIbqK_F0wgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_7265.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KHnL7VoBWbs/XWXri8VWZ9I/AAAAAAAAAr8/J6dK7-bZnAUyNrRj0rc9lJstIbqK_F0wgCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_7265.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">you can see some the excess shoulder fabric remains on the left here, post arm-hole surgery</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In order to fix this without wasting the linen, I reluctantly removed those pucker-less sleeves and trimmed a crescent-shaped piece from the top of each. Fortunately they went back in without a hitch. Some excess fabric is still there when I lift my arms, but less so and I’m happy to live with it now.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J3BHX-YgKX0/XWXrc8JfbII/AAAAAAAAArw/eGGLb7OPABkprj9LF5r6sNKo3qVzbx_ZwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_7174.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1570" data-original-width="1600" height="627" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J3BHX-YgKX0/XWXrc8JfbII/AAAAAAAAArw/eGGLb7OPABkprj9LF5r6sNKo3qVzbx_ZwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_7174.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This will be worn to bits. Other than the shoulder drama, this is a really pleasing shirt with beautiful proportions and some really lovely details. Initially I wasn’t sure about the deep high-low hem facing (not really my style) but it’s turned out to be one of my favourite features of this top. Definitely worth the time. It’s a win!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The Maven Rochester pattern is available as downloadable PDF (with copy shop option) from the <a href="https://mavenpatterns.co.uk/product/the-rochester-pattern/">Maven website here</a>.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Slate washed linen can be <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-washed-softened-slate?_pos=1&_sid=9aac12ce1&_ss=r">found here</a>.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> - Fiona xx</span></span></div>
fionahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11526567415058476429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-24575293864627417472019-08-22T21:59:00.001-07:002019-08-22T21:59:40.156-07:00Pattern Review: The Assembly Line Wrap Jacket (times two)Some patterns sneak up on you. This project started out as a practical shop sample which took me a couple of weeks to slowly cut out and put together, as a job - a not unpleasant one, granted - rather than a passion project.<br />
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The moment I tried it on however, I wanted one for myself. In a cosy wool. NOW!<br />
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Adelaide has been so cold lately (by Adelaide standards) and I lacked the mid-length jacket or cardigan this weather demands. <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/kimono-jacket-pattern-the-assembly-line?_pos=1&_sid=cb0372f83&_ss=r">The Assembly Line Wrap Jacket</a> combines unlined, raglan-sleeve softness with long, clean lines for a mix of comfort and put-togetherness. This pattern was formerly known as the Kimono Jacket but, as with a number of similarly-named patterns by other designers, has changed name to respect the cultural importance of the traditional Japanese garment.<br />
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The shop sample shown above is made in <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-cotton-japanese-textured-indigo-cloth-this-way-up?_pos=1&_sid=ff4e545c3&_ss=r">'This Way Up' Japanese Textured Indigo Cloth</a>, a white print on yarn-dyed indigo-coloured cotton. This fabric is 110cm wide, while the pattern only states fabric requirements for 140cm+ width. I laid out my Size M pattern pieces and this took 2.5m of 110cm width. My fabric was directional but I think you would still need 2.5m in a non-directional.<br />
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For 'my' version I cut 2m as per pattern of our <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*Velvet%20finish*">Velvet Finish 100% Australian Wool</a> in Deep Navy. I didn't consult the pattern layout before I cut, and this actually has pieces running in both directions - but my fabric has a nap - gasp! With some careful juggling I managed to squeeze the Size M jacket out of the 2m, folded, as shown below. So please bear this in mind if you're working with a directional fabric. An extra 20 - 30cm might make all the difference.<br />
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The construction is rather nifty, especially the creation of the collar which also makes a dart for shaping on the front bodice. I followed all instructions to the letter, except I bound my seams and hem edges with Liberty.<br />
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It just makes me so happy to see Liberty bound seams in an unlined jacket. In the wool version, I bound everything except the small shoulder darts. Here it is inside out:<br />
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This pleasingly used almost every last scrap of a single fat quarter cut of our new <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/liberty-tana-lawn-isadora-c?_pos=1&_sid=1c2fbefd8&_ss=r">'Isadora C' tana lawn</a> (cut in 1.5" bias strips and folded using the red Clover bias maker). You can see I also added a 'me made' <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*Kylie*">label by Kylie and The Machine</a>.<br />
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And here it is in action.<br />
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My only comment on the fit is that the sleeves are quite long, but this allows me to fold them up and show a bit of binding if I wish, or roll them down for extra hand warming. Yes, it does have a little bit of a dressing gown vibe but you know? I don't care. I think it's actually something I love about The Assembly Line patterns: they're not afraid to make a little bit of a statement, while being comfy as heck.<br />
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Both fabrics were a pleasure to work with, and the wool especially was a dream. It's so stable, cuts like butter, barely frays and really doesn't distort at all. I used a walking foot for the majority of the wool construction, which helped the thick layers pass smoothly through the machine. The wool responded well to pressing using a 'pressing cloth' (i.e. teatowel), pressing on the back of the fabric wherever possible, and using a 'clapper' (improvised bit of flat wood pressed down after the iron) to hold in the steam and set the crease. When pressing the belt straps, I also used fine Entomology Pins to hold the seam flat - pinned right into the ironing board padding, you can just see the tiny ends below - before I lowered the iron.<br />
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This wool, also available in Mulberry and Black, is excess stock from a local, ethical design company. It's incredibly beautiful and a feel-good purchase to boot.<br />
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Note here that if you are using a fabric that is shifty and/or fray-prone, there's a fair bit of handling of the garment while some raw edges, particularly angles and curves at the top, are still unsewn. It might pay to use quite a bit of stay-stitching or other stabilisation technique.<br />
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I have comfortably worn this jacket all day whilst doing a number of tasks at home and at work. The inside button fastening keeps it securely in place while done up. If worn open, the jacket ties don't make a nuisance of themselves. The pockets are a fabulously useful size and perfectly placed. Small details like elbow and shoulder darts and topstitching elevate this jacket's finish but it's a really achievable one-day sew. Can you tell I love it?<br />
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<b>SUMMARY</b><br />
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<b>Pattern: </b><a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/kimono-jacket-pattern-the-assembly-line?_pos=1&_sid=cb0372f83&_ss=r">The Wrap Jacket by The Assembly Line</a><br />
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<b>Fabric:</b> 2.5m <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-cotton-japanese-textured-indigo-cloth-this-way-up?_pos=1&_sid=ff4e545c3&_ss=r">'This Way Up' Japanese Textured Indigo Cotton </a>plus a fat quarter (50cm x 67.5cm) <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/liberty-tana-lawn-dapper-dogs?_pos=1&_sid=d30c0bba0&_ss=r">Liberty Tana Lawn 'Dapper Dogs'</a> (version 1), 2m <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*Velvet%20finish*">Velvet Finish 100% Australian Wool</a> in Deep Navy (also available in Black and Mulberrry) plus a fat quarter <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/liberty-tana-lawn-isadora-c?_pos=1&_sid=1c2fbefd8&_ss=r">Liberty Tana Lawn 'Isadora C'</a> (version 2)<br />
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<b>Size:</b> M<br />
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<b>Alterations:</b> None except seam finish - bound instead of overlocked<br />
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<b>Comments:</b> I loved this more than I expected to. It's another winner from The Assembly Line!<br />
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- Jane xx<br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-33604375880050940682019-08-15T23:05:00.004-07:002020-12-18T21:33:23.473-08:00Pattern freebie: mini dachshund jacket<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">** ETA Dec 2020: Sorry! Due to technical issues (a broken laptop where the pattern was stored) this pattern is no longer available. You can use the illustrations of the pattern pieces below as guide by taking the measurement of the length of your dog's back to correspond to the length of the jacket body along the fold line. Alternatively, we recommend you try the new free dog jacket pattern by Closet Case <a href="https://www.closetcorepatterns.com/keep-your-pup-warm-with-our-free-dog-coat-pattern/">here</a>. </span><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">When we published a photo on Instagram of one of our dogs (wee Lola, above) wearing a jacket made from the scraps from one of our projects recently, we had a few requests to share the pattern. So here it is! A quick guide to how I make a my dog jackets. This is a super simple pattern that is easily adaptable to the size of your dog. But please note that the straps are short and the body long on this pattern to fit the long n’ low dachshund in particular as most jackets are too short for their gorgeous sausagey bodies. </span><br />
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<span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Pattern pieces are below in JPG format (sorry, couldn't upload PDFs to Blogger, please send us an email if you'd like the PDFs!) They may or may not print to scale, so please check the measurements for a mini dachshund outlined in the directions - and you might want to smooth out some of those roughly-drawn curves! There's also a picture of the finished product out flat to give a guide as there are no diagrams here. </span></div>
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<span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Enjoy and feel free to distribute to others. But of course this pattern - rough as it is - has been shared because we love dogs and is not for commercial use. :)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;"><b>DIRECTIONS</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;">Please note that seam allowance is not included in this pattern. Please add your desired seam allowance before cutting, 1cm should be ample.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;"><b>You’ll need:</b><br />- 35cm fabric of any width for outer (we recommend a light to mid-weight washable woven wool (<a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/collections/wovens/Wool-Blends">these Japanese wool blends are perfect</a>) or a soft canvas).<br />- 35cm lining fabric (light woven cotton or linen)<br />- Velcro (less than 10cm)<br />- Thread, fabric marker, scissors, point turner, iron, sewing machine.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;"><b>Preparation</b><br />Cut out dog jacket pieces as per pattern, transferring all markings from paper to fabric. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;">Pattern size guidelines for a miniature Dachshund: the length of the body pattern along the centre back fold line is approximately 35cm long by 14cm wide; the length of the under body strap 23cm long by 7cm wide, and the length of the neck strap about 20cm long by 5cm wide (all measurements given are before the addition of seam allowance).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;">If you don't want to assemble the straps, you can easily substitute some thick, soft elastic and sew it into the seams as you </span><span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;">assemble the body of the jacket instead.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;"><b>Construction</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;"><b>1.</b> With right sides together pin one body piece to one body lining piece, matching </span><span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;">head end with head end and tail end with tail end. Sew around perimeter (using the seam allowance you selected and added during preparation) but leave an 8cm gap in your stitches at the tail end of the jacket, backstitching at each end. Finish seams with a zig zag and set aside.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;"><b>2. </b>Repeat as above for under body strap and neck strap, leaving a smaller gap in your stitching along the longest sides of each strap.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;"><b>3.</b> </span><span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;">Using the turning tool, turn all pieces inside out through the gap in the seam then press well, tucking the seam allowance of the unfinished gap/hole back inside the jacket.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;"><b>4. </b></span><span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;">Topstitch around the entire edge of all jacket and strap pieces, enclosing the turning holes.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;"><b>5. </b>You might want to do a quick fitting on your dog before this next step to ensure that you are getting the position and length of the straps right for the size of your dog. Using the cross on one side of the body piece as a guide, top stitch the short end of the under body strap to the body piece on the outer side of the jacket. Repeat with the neck strap, affixing one short end of the strap to the head end of the body piece using the cross on the pattern as a guide.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;"><b>6. </b>Cut two small lengths of velcro, about 3cm each, and separate the pieces. Sew one side of the velcro onto the body pieces at the remaining crosses on under body and neck. Then sew the other side of the velcro to the lining side of each neck and under body strap.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;">You’re done! Pop the jacket on your hound and pat yourself on the back for keeping them warm.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: HelveticaNeue;">- Fiona xx</span></div>
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</div>fionahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11526567415058476429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-17162959077522327012019-07-21T19:28:00.000-07:002019-07-30T22:52:58.528-07:00Pattern review: The Puff Shirt by The Assembly LineMany sewists find themselves on the hunt for a simple-but-stylish top pattern for woven fabrics. One you could potentially repeat in a number of different fabrics, maybe use as a basis for long and short sleeved versions; a go-to, pull-on woven top. I have a couple of these in my repertoire: the <a href="http://draperyfinefabrics.blogspot.com/2016/02/summer-liberty-love.html">Roberts Collection top</a> by Marilla Walker and the <a href="http://draperyfinefabrics.blogspot.com/2019/03/pattern-review-frankie-ray-breezeway.html">Breezeway Top</a> by Frankie and Ray; excellent everyday tops. The Roberts Top now offers a free <a href="https://www.marillawalkerpatterns.com/products/pattern-bonus-1-roberts-collection">downloadable sleeve option</a> and the Breezeway can use the sleeve from the Frankie and Ray <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/frankie-and-ray-the-friday-shirt-pattern">Friday Shirt</a> so they both have year-round potential.<br />
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But how about something a little more tailored and dressy? <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/puff-shirt-pattern-the-assembly-line?_pos=5&_sid=4f2e4c348&_ss=r">The Assembly Line Puff Shirt</a> has been a popular pattern and has a charming mix of simplicity, elegance and a little bit of fun with those dramatic gathered bell sleeves. I was particularly inspired after seeing versions made by our delightful customer and blogger Pips (she's made quite a few of the Assembly Line patterns and has a fabulous personal style, well worth a look - on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/magdalenesmuse/">Instagram</a> and <a href="https://thegirlinateacup.com/">blog</a>.)<br />
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Having had success with the <a href="http://draperyfinefabrics.blogspot.com/2019/06/pattern-review-hoodie-dress-by-assembly.html">Assembly Line Hoodie Dress</a> pattern (in fact I made a second one because I wanted to wear the first all the time and they've become my winter 2019 uniform), I felt fairly confident diving straight in to a Size M in the Puff Shirt.<br />
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I used a <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/japanese-yarn-dyed-brushed-cotton-chambray-blue-palest-lilac?_pos=7&_sid=06ddd447e&_ss=r">Japanese yarn-dyed brushed cotton</a>, for a bit of winter cosiness.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">The Puff Shirt is quite a simple pattern to sew and I found all the notches lined up perfectly, the sleeves had just the right amount of ease and it was an enjoyable project. I feel like a bit of an expert on the elastic cuff now (that's what's tucked inside those sleeve ends, and used to great effect on the Hoodie Dress). When I tried on the finished shirt I was very pleased with the fit through the body, the length and the proportions. </span><br />
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And that sleeve - just enough drama to feel a bit special but not ridiculous. It's possibly a little long on me but surprisingly doesn't get in the way of anything. The instructions ask you to fold the cuff to the inside of the 'puff' and stitch down to keep them tucked in, but I haven't stitched them down. They stay put on their own and this way the cuff can be turned out fully to help the shirt dry after washing.<br />
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Sleeve drama!</div>
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As with the Hoodie Dress, the lovely angled French darts provide enough shaping without need for a Full Bust Adjustment. Hurrah.<br />
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The envelope neckline gives a lovely boat-neck shape. On me it tends to pull a little at the front shoulders, so it doesn't sit completely flat. In fact in the photographs above I have a small safety pin under the overlap on my left shoulder, which is keeping things in place quite well. I wonder if the pulling is because of my sloping shoulders. Or possibly I do actually need a small FBA. Or to narrow a little through the back shoulders? Hmm. If it bothers me I could potentially put buttons and buttonholes at the join, which might look nice, or perhaps a pair of hidden press-studs to hold the overlap in place. There is surely a small fitting adjustment I could make to help with this. Here's a quick snap of the offending part after wearing the top for a while without the safety pin, and after that, a photo of the back of the shirt. If anyone has any fitting suggestions I'd be grateful!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There is a centre back seam so I could possibly attempt some shaping through there.</td></tr>
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It's very comfortable to wear and I am really pleased to find a simple woven top that fits me through the bust without being too wide in the shoulders. With the elastic cuffs, the puff sleeves are easy to push up out of the way, for example, when washing hands. I also quite like the idea of trying this without the puff; it would be simple to trim the sleeve to a narrow tapered shape that would be easier to wear under jackets and cardigans. I think this top could be a useful 'base' for variations.<br />
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<b>Summary</b><br />
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<b>PATTERN</b> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/puff-shirt-pattern-the-assembly-line?_pos=5&_sid=40f6eec2c&_ss=r">The Puff Shirt by The Assembly Line</a><br />
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<b>FABRIC</b> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/japanese-yarn-dyed-brushed-cotton-chambray-blue-palest-lilac?_pos=7&_sid=34b0df15a&_ss=r">Brushed cotton - yarn dyed, made in Japan</a> 1.9m (amounts are only given for 150cm wide fabric so I laid the pattern out)<br />
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<b>SIZE </b>M (my measurements approx. bust 39" waist 32" hip 42", height 5ft 3/163cm)<br />
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<b>ADJUSTMENTS</b> None, but would investigate for a second version to help with pulling at front overlap<br />
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<b>COMMENTS</b> Another lovely wardrobe-builder from The Assembly Line. I like it with jeans/pants and it will also layer well with my pinafores and overalls. It works in a fabric with light body like this brushed cotton, but the sleeves would have more 'swish' in something drapier like a washed linen, Tencel, Cupro etc.<br />
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- Jane x<br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-77946945427109215022019-07-09T17:53:00.002-07:002019-07-09T17:55:54.854-07:00Pattern review: The Wilder Gown by Friday Pattern Company in Natural 100% LinenSometimes a sewing pattern seduces you, despite it being outside your usual comfort zone. The new <a href="https://www.fridaypatterncompany.com/patterns/the-wilder-gown-pdf-pattern">Wilder Gown by California-based Friday Pattern Company</a> lured me in with its siren song. The magic of sewing would instantly transform me into the amazing model in the photographs, right? I mean, swoon. Just add a floral headpiece.<br />
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Back in the real world... I made a sketch of the Wilder on the <a href="https://www.mybodymodel.com/">'My Body Model'</a> fashion sketching croquis, based on my own dimensions. (I highly recommend this as a sewing project tool.)<br />
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Hey, this could work!<br />
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I bought the pattern (pdf only at present) and had it printed in large format at Aish on Glen Osmond Road. I have a 'fancy' evening version of the Wilder in mind for later on, but as a first run I thought I'd try it in our favourite all-occasions standby, <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-natural-unbleached-flax-light-weight">Lithuanian Natural Linen</a>. The earthiness of this fabric helps dress the design down a bit. With all that volume and gathering, I want this dress to feel either super-relaxed or super-dressy.<br />
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So, excellent news - the Wilder sews up in a very short space of time. The line drawings show you just how beautifully simple this dress is:<br />
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Raglan sleeves, neckline gathered with a long tie and those skirt tiers are simple gathered rectangles.<br />
The hardest part is pinning the layers together and I confess I went with 'rustic' gathers rather than trying for perfectly spaced and evenly sewn. The shirt version is very appealing and avoids sewn gathers altogether.<br />
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The instructions are great and you're encouraged along the way by adorable little images of happy sewing tools with positive advice. I love touches like this which keep you motivated through some of the duller parts of sewing like cutting out.<br />
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I measured a Size L and made a small FBA (simplest FBA ever) as per the instructions, adding 1/2" to the width of the front bodice pattern piece. The other adjustment I made was to take 10cm out of the length, to account for my height, by reducing each tier by 5cm.<br />
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When I first tried the finished dress on I could absolutely feel the unapologetic 'nightgown' references made in the pattern. There's so much volume and length. However, the whole point of this gown is to be loose and flowy and swingy. After I wore it a bit, and the linen softened up, its voluminous glory really grew on me. Can you imagine how comfy it is? And, twirly? (Check out the <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/wildergown/">pattern hashtag on Instagram</a> for many sewists swishing and twirling!)<br />
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As the pattern helpfully suggests, I played about with the neckline gathers, since this can make quite a difference in how the dress sits. After a bit of wear, I stitched the ties in place with a few hand-stitches on the wrong side at the channel opening. This means the gathers stay in place even if I knot the tie a bit more loosely.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There is hand stitching in there somewhere I promise.</td></tr>
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For daytime wear I still feel the need to dress the Wilder down. I like it with leggings and boots, or neutral, sensible shoes like my trusty Duckfeet Mols. It works well with a denim jacket. Basically, something that declares I am not off to bed in a four-poster or to picnic at Hanging Rock. A fancy evening version? Well, something with a touch of translucency, layered over a slip is twirling in my mind's eye.<br />
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Has the Wilder Gown captured your imagination?<br />
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<b>In summary</b><br />
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<b>PATTERN:</b> <a href="https://www.fridaypatterncompany.com/patterns/the-wilder-gown-pdf-pattern">The Wilder Gown by Friday Pattern Company</a> (pdf available direct from designer)<br />
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<b>FABRIC:</b> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-natural-unbleached-flax-light-weight">100% Linen, Natural, 160gsm.</a> Pattern asked for 3.5m of 150cm wide fabric. I used about 2.9m, part of which is accounted for by my shortening the skirt tier piece, which would have used another 25cm at full size. My advice would be to buy the full amount suggested for your size and fabric width, unless you know you will shorten it.<br />
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<b>SIZE:</b> L<br />
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<b>ALTERATIONS:</b> 1/2" FBA and shortened each skirt tier by 5cm.<br />
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<b>COMMENTS:</b> Fast and simple construction and almost no fitting issues meant a low-risk adventure into unknown style territory. The only drawback is the considerable fabric consumption if you're not sure whether the Wilder will be for you.<br />
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The sleeves are a bit wider and meet the bodice at a lower point than I anticipated from the product photographs. Finished garment measurements are given, and accurate; it turns out I really couldn't imagine how super-roomy six inches of bust ease would be! I am in two minds about narrowing down through this area, or simply sizing down, in any subsequent versions. It might be best to leave well enough alone.<br />
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For me the Wilder is the right meeting of volume and drama with pared back simplicity. It's great to try a different style now and then!<br />
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- Jane xx<br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-51379418188992181412019-06-04T23:00:00.000-07:002020-04-27T20:09:30.434-07:00Pattern Review: The Hoodie Dress by The Assembly Line, in Deep Navy Twill LinenThe new pattern range by Swedish company The Assembly Line has been selling like hotcakes, and we've been hearing many positive reports back from customers about their garments. We like to be able to advise our customers from our own experience and <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/hoodie-dress-pattern-the-assembly-line">The Hoodie Dress</a> looked more and more appealing as the wintry weather set in here in Adelaide.<br />
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The pattern says: <i>"The Hoodie Dress slips over the head, there are elastic cuffs at sleeve and skirt bottom. It features large front pockets and a hood. If you prefer the dress without the hood, this pattern includes a pattern part for neck facing to be used instead."</i><br />
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To help choose your size, the pattern includes body measurements plus comprehensive finished garment measurements. This showed that there's a decent amount of ease built in, but I made a muslin of the bodice and sleeves to check whether I should do a full bust adjustment (which I often require). The deeply angled 'French' style bust darts actually provide plenty of shaping and I made no adjustments to the pattern. The sleeve head and armscye are a shape I know works well for me and indeed, the shoulder and sleeve sat nicely.<br />
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The <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-washed-softened-deep-navy-twill">Deep Navy Twill linen</a> I chose is a great partner for this cosy pattern: quite a good weight and very soft. However, in my head the song from the old Alice in Wonderland animated film was nagging at me: <i>"I give myself very good advice, but I very seldom follow it"</i>. I knew I should have pre-washed the linen to give it back a bit of crispness for the cutting and construction. But did I? Nope. So the lovely linen was a bit shifty and fray-prone to work with (typical of a twill weave, softened linen). I staystitched all over the place, and pinned, pinned, pinned, and breathed a sigh of relief when the final seam was neatly overlocked!<br />
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The only part where I strayed a little from the (excellent) instructions was in binding the seams inside the hood, rather than overlocking, because they are sometimes visible. I made some bias tape from <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/liberty-tana-lawn-autumn-trip">Liberty Tana Lawn in 'Autumn Trip'</a>, and it's amazing how far a fat quarter can go. Not only did it bind this and part of my Sierra Jumpsuit, but I still squeezed out a dog bandanna from the leftovers!<br />
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The cuffs call for 5cm wide elastic for the cuffs. Since I didn't have this, I joined two strips of narrower elastic side-by-side with a zigzag stitch. I saw this tip online somewhere recently - I'm sorry I don't recall where so I can't credit - but it works perfectly! I used a soft knitted elastic for comfort. It's sewn into the seams as per the instructions so the elastic won't twist in its casing, hurrah.<br />
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When I first tried on the almost-finished garment I was a bit overwhelmed by its... monastic vibe. There's no getting away from the hood which contributes a lot to this, but it's also a large part of the pattern's charm. I ended up chopping 16cm off the bottom of the dress, which was tremendously long on me, and then when I added the elastic cuffs the true essence of the design came through and it felt a lot less 'costumey'. In fact I really love it.<br />
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If I put the hood up it also has a Jedi feel, but I'm okay with that. As you can probably imagine it's all kinds of comfy. Those monks and Jedi are no fools.<br />
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I carefully tried this on before I set in the sleeves and was rather taken with the look of it sleeveless. It would be great on its own and with fitted layers underneath. I'd take the time to make a sleeve facing pattern piece, interface it and have a stitched down finish like the hood facing.<br />
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Other fabrics I'd recommend for this pattern include:<br />
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<a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/55-hemp-45-organic-cotton-indigo-chambray">Hemp & Organic Cotton Indigo Chambray</a><br />
<a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*Japanese%20textured%20twill*"><br /></a>
<a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*Japanese%20textured%20twill*">Cotton/linen Japanese Textured Twill</a><br />
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<a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*linen%20lithuania*">Any of our 100% linens</a><br />
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<a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*Tencel%20cotton%20light%20denim*">Japanese Tencel/Cotton Light Denim</a><br />
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<a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*Utility%20Cloth*">Japanese Utility Cloth</a><br />
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<a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*Japanese%20wool%20blend*">Japanese Wool Blends</a><br />
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<b>In summary:</b><br />
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<b>PATTERN:</b> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/hoodie-dress-pattern-the-assembly-line">The Hoodie Dress by The Assembly Line</a><br />
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<b>FABRIC:</b> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-washed-softened-deep-navy-twill">100% linen Deep Navy Twill</a><br />
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<b>SIZE:</b> M, shortened by 16cm at bottom hem<br />
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<b>COMMENTS:</b> A very nicely designed and well-written pattern. Not complicated yet has nice small details like an elbow dart, shaped back seam and topstitching. The large pattern envelope makes it easy to store all the traced pattern pieces and the A4 instruction booklet is clear and thorough. I love it and can definitely imagine another of these in my wardrobe - probably sleeveless for layerable year-round wear.<br />
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<b>EDIT: USING 110CM WIDE FABRIC?</b> I made another and used 3.1m of 110cm wide fabric, which was with the skirt shortened by 10cm. So for full length you would want 3.3m of 110cm wide for size M. I hope that helps somebody!<br />
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- Jane xx<br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-47152238303565148852019-05-16T23:45:00.000-07:002019-05-16T23:45:34.614-07:00Pattern Review: Papercut Sierra Jumpsuit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hi, Jane here! The <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/papercut-patterns-sierra-jumpsuit">Papercut Sierra Jumpsuit </a>has been on my to-make wishlist ever since its release last year.</div>
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Jumpsuits in general are tricky to test for fit until they're almost entirely sewn. So instead of a muslin, I made a properly finished garment that could be a shop sample if it didn't fit me well enough. Having a bit of Papercut experience under my belt, I was pretty confident in cutting the size M with a little bit of extra room added in the backside. (Ah, the things you end up casually writing in the name of sewing.) Here's how I added a little extra room in the 'seat':<br />
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That was good for size, with some expected bodice adjustments required for my final take-home version. Here's that first version, ain't she pretty?<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can see this sample in the shop and even try it on if you like!</td></tr>
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I used our <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/55-hemp-45-organic-cotton-indigo-chambray">Hemp/Organic Cotton Chambray</a>. It's such a well-behaved and pleasing fabric to work with, a mid-to-light weight that softens but doesn't bag out. With the given fabric allowance (2.6m) I was able to cut the bodice lining pieces in this fabric as well. Of course this made things extra-confusing when it came to working out which piece was which, especially since there is no right or wrong side. HOT TIP: label your cut pieces clearly! I used tailor's chalk but masking tape with details written on sounds like a great idea. I ended up with boobs cheerily labelled A and B before I washed my final garment.<br />
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This was one of those slightly baffling, origami-like makes where I just obediently followed each step to bring it all together. I love the finished garment, but 'straight out of the packet' on me there's significant armhole gape, especially at the front. (Pardon the rough photos that follow, in the name of sharing the sewing information!)<br />
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I think the cause is twofold: I have a short torso, and full bust. To improve the fit, I pinned out a dart in the front armhole, and a bit of length at the back armhole/strap.<br />
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After transferring this to my paper pattern, I rotated the dart out of the armhole, into the bust dart. Then I moved the whole bust dart down to better match my apex. (Thanks be to Google and all the excellent sewing people who make tutorials.) I also added an inch of length to each of the ties, because I'm a little thicc around the middle.<br />
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I whipped up a quick & dirty bodice muslin to check the alterations and it was thumbs up and ready to go.<br />
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My final version is in a beautiful <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/yarn-dyed-100-cottons-by-haori-of-taiwan">100% cotton, yarn-dyed mid-weight by Haori of Taiwan</a>, who make textiles in traditional Japanese styles. It's a bit heavier than the chambray, so I used a very lightweight cotton for the bodice lining. I didn't have a matching invisible zip, or the proper machine foot. Luck was on my side when I realised I could get in and out of the jumpsuit without using a zip, so I've just sewn up that side and it's good to go. (One step fewer when taking a loo break is always a win with a jumpsuit!)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I don't know what I'm doing here but it shows you the back.</td></tr>
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On the inside, there's a part where a lot of seams come together and it feels not quite strong or finished enough. I used a bit of hand-stitching to neaten and strengthen the area, which is, in any case, completely hidden from the outside.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look, no armhole gape!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jump! suit</td></tr>
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Like all good jumpsuits it's really comfortable to wear and there's no worry about unintended midriff exposure when sitting, bending or riding a bike. It's quite easy to get in and out of, and surprisingly easy to iron - a fact that always dramatically increases likelihood of wear in my wardrobe. If I want to wear it without a t-shirt in summer, I'll probably want to add a small snap at centre front just to help keep things tidy.<br />
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The side seam pockets have an unusual insertion method that helps keep them sitting towards the front, and allows for the zip insertion (which I didn't need). They're a decent size for hands, hankies and small objects, and shouldn't stretch out because the front opening is interfaced.<br />
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<b>PATTERN:</b> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/papercut-patterns-sierra-jumpsuit">Sierra Jumpsuit by Papercut Patterns</a><br />
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<b>FABRIC:</b> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/55-hemp-45-organic-cotton-indigo-chambray">Hemp/Organic Cotton Chambray</a>, <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/yarn-dyed-100-cottons-by-haori-of-taiwan">Haori 100% Cotton</a><br />
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<b>SIZE:</b> M with added bum-space, extra length in ties and bodice adjustments as detailed above.<br />
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<b>COMMENTS:</b><br />
The Sierra feels a bit dressier and more put-together than other jumpsuits I have made.<br />
Tall people should note they may need to add length. I'm 5ft 3 / 163cm and consider myself short in the torso. While I did take a smidgen of bodice length out at the strap, this is *just* right on me and others may find they need to add length in both bodice and leg.<br />
A step not noted on the pattern but worth the effort is to staystitch around the neck and armhole edges that aren't reinforced with interfacing, because they're handled quite a lot during construction and could stretch out.<br />
Altogether a fun pattern to make and wear.<br />
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Check out some other thoughtful reviews of this pattern, including some similar notes to mine, at <a href="https://www.isewthereforeiam.com/sierra-jumpsuit/">I Sew Therefore I Am</a> and <a href="http://chainstitcher.blogspot.com/2019/02/leaf-green-linen-sierra-jumpsuit.html">Diary of a Chainstitcher</a>.<br />
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- Jane xx<br />
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-5560414341641572422019-05-01T21:49:00.000-07:002019-05-01T21:49:10.245-07:00Pattern Review: Thread Theory Strathcona Henley<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I have a real aversion to buying new clothes. I try and make most of my own, but I haven’t so far made a huge amount for my partner, Neil. I’m always making promises, so I delay him buying new clothes, but often my intentions don’t match reality so his wardrobe can start looking a little threadbare….I could no longer ignore the little holes in his t-shirts (I don’t know how but they appear in all of them), necklines a bit stretched out, and the odd stain here and there. All looking a bit shabby.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now was the time to come through on my promises, especially as we had the gorgeous <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/collections/knits/Hemp-and-Blends-Knits">55% Hemp, 45% Organic Cotton Jersey fabrics</a> in store. I am always excited to find fabrics with hemp content as hemp requires no pesticides and significantly less water to grow than cotton and is known for its durability. I decided to give the Thread Theory Strathcona Henley a try, in the t-shirt option (Variation 2). This pattern is described as a slim fitting t-shirt that can be sewn either with a straight crew neck (as I did) or a Henley style placket with long or short sleeves. It’s not often that you can find matching rib for your fabric, but for all of these fabrics we do have the ribbing in an exact colour match, so I used some of that too!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Neil is usually a small or medium in t-shirts, but comparing the measurements of one of his well- loved tees with the pattern I was surprised to find I would need to make a L – the second biggest size. This is to give him what I would consider an average fit but certainly not oversized. </span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I also found it to be very long in the body. I removed 10cm from the length before I cut which I think would have been spot on for Neil. Unfortunately I made him try it on before hemming and for some reason decided it needed to lose another inch so it’s a tad on the short side now.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Construction</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">The pattern instructions were very clear and the t-shirt came together fairly easily, albeit with a bit of tinkering to try and get the ribbed neckband right (I’d never used ribbing for a neckband before). The length required to get a neckband to sit flat and not pucker I have always found to be a bit of a mystery. Too short and it needs to be stretched too much when sewn, causing puckers around the seam. Too long and it sticks up away from the body. And each fabric will behave differently, based on the amount of stretch, so there’s no easy answer. I turned to the internet for help and found a couple of useful resources </span><a href="https://growyourownclothes.com/2017/09/14/how-to-get-knit-neckband-ribbing-the-perfect-length-every-time/" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: blue; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">here</span></a><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"> and </span><a href="https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/10/27/video-a-neckline-binding-for-knits" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: blue; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">here</span></a><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I did veer away from the pattern somewhat at this point, as it calls for 5/8 in (1.6cm) seam allowances throughout. I prefer a narrower seam allowance on neckbands to give me half a chance of a good result so used ¼ in (0.6 cm).</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I finished the hem and sleeves with an overlocked edge and a twin needle.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Final thoughts</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The t-shirt fits really nicely on Neil and he reports that the fabric is really soft and comfortable to wear. The pattern is well written and easy to follow and contains plenty of extra tips for sewing with knits if you’re new to using this kind of fabric.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I did find the size range to be disappointing as it doesn’t cater to larger bodies. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">One t-shirt is not going to solve the current t-shirt crisis in Neil’s wardrobe so there will be more coming…(one in every colour of the hemp and organic cotton jersey we have in store!)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Find the Strathcona Henley pattern <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/thread-theory-men-s-patterns-goldstream-peacoat-comox-trunks-finlayson-sweater-strathcona-henley">here</a>.</span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Lauren</span></span></div>
fionahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11526567415058476429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-30209822375285855172019-04-03T20:31:00.000-07:002019-04-03T20:32:08.335-07:00Pattern Review - Merchant and Mills Ellis Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nJnLPuOjmT0/XKQv2M5ofnI/AAAAAAAAApY/YFi_7XG0Rj0FlPoa080Si_C_ipelxh83wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_5129.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nJnLPuOjmT0/XKQv2M5ofnI/AAAAAAAAApY/YFi_7XG0Rj0FlPoa080Si_C_ipelxh83wCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_5129.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">We’ve had the Merchant and Mills Ellis & Hattie pattern sitting in the shop for years and I’ve often thought I’d like to give it a try. Gathered waists, however, are not necessarily my bag. Then there was the question of which one to make: Ellis with its sleeves and in-line pockets, or Hattie with a dropped waist, lined sleeveless bodice and impressively voluminous patch pickets. It was all too hard! The pattern stayed on the shelf.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Then, earlier this year one of our lovely customers, Alisha walked in wearing her <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bsj_JDlHbRA/">gorgeous version of Ellis</a>, and - BAM - straight it went to the top of my sewing queue. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Weeks later when actual sewing was due to commence, we had just taken delivery of some beautiful fabrics from Japan and I was smitten with <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/70-cotton-30-linen-shirting-weight-japanese-twill-faded-sunflower">these</a> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/70-cotton-30-linen-shirting-weight-japanese-twill-eggplant">linen/cotton</a> light twills, especially in <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/70-cotton-30-linen-shirting-weight-japanese-twill-deep-teal">this lush deep teal</a>. After cutting (of course, AFTER) I recalled that I may have unintentionally completely copied the version that inspired me: same pattern, same colour fabric. Oh no! Sorry, Alisha if you’re reading!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Merchant and Mills patterns usually have a lovely detail or two, and Ellis & Hattie is no different. What drew me to this dress was those swoon-worthy 4 darts around the neck line. Ditto the simple rouleau button closure at the back. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">As for the construction, this is a straightforward sew. The instructions and diagrams are clear and easy to follow. Also, the finishing is comprehensive - details usually left up to the maker like anchoring your facing to the finished garment are included in the pattern directions. Nothing is left to chance!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Sizing</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I’m not going to lie, this is one roomy frock. I made a bodice muslin and was happy with the fit, even though it was fairly loose. I chose the size according to my measurements, but have to say, after the gathered skirt is attached the volume of this dress skyrockets. On me, this feels perhaps a little too much, and in retrospect I could have sized down. There is also some excess fabric at my shoulder tips, which I may go back and remove. Worth noting though that the fit is slightly off the shoulder on the women pictured on the pattern packaging: this is supposed to be a loose fitting thing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We’ve heard from customers that M&M arm pieces can sometimes be drafted a little on the narrow side, so I approached these with caution. Mine fit well, but perhaps that’s a refection of having been generous when choosing which size I’d make. The arms are certainly much more fitted than the rest of this dress - a style thing, but worth keeping in mind. We’d definitely recommend you make a full muslin (arms AND skirt included) before you make a final call on which size to choose for this pattern.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Fabric</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This cotton/linen, at 124gsm is fairly light and with good drape. We turned around and ordered a second bolt of this not long after the first arrived, such was our love for its slightly shot weave and gorgeous jewel-like hue. It works amply for the Ellis but I suspect this dress would benefit from something slightly weightier: a medium weight washed linen like <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-washed-softened-blue-jean-1">Ocean</a> would be ideal. But this is pleasingly floaty and will be nice and breezy on a warm day, or layered up with leggings when Autumn decides to actually hit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Modifications</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I took about 8 inches out of the skirt width because of my gathered skirt trepidation. It’s not even noticeable - this skirt is still plentiful! I also took about 10 cm off the hem, for reference I’m 167cm (5'5"). Straight out of the box, this is a true midi length.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nhi3KcteyL4/XKQvo2En3OI/AAAAAAAAApM/emWecg61KcUF57nIbciiE5DINJzYI6UugCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_5116.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nhi3KcteyL4/XKQvo2En3OI/AAAAAAAAApM/emWecg61KcUF57nIbciiE5DINJzYI6UugCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_5116.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>The wash up</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">To be honest, between finishing and wearing this I thought Ellis might have been the nail in the coffin for gathered skirts and me. But after a day’s wear I’m loving this dress. It was a really enjoyable sew and now I’m even wondering what the pattern would be like made into a peplum-style top. Who would have thought?!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/merchant-mills-ellis-hattie-dress-pattern">Ellis/Hattie pattern is available here</a>, and our <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/70-cotton-30-linen-shirting-weight-japanese-twill-deep-teal">70% cotton + 30% Linen in Deep Teal is available here</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">- Fiona & Jane xx</span></div>
fionahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11526567415058476429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-40622018240160839612019-03-30T18:23:00.000-07:002019-03-30T18:24:55.789-07:00Pattern Review: Frankie & Ray Breezeway Top in white linenJo of Frankie and Ray had been teasing the release of the <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/frankie-ray-the-breezeway-top-pattern">Breezeway Top pattern</a> on her Instagram for a while and we thought it looked like another winner. So I jumped in and made one as soon as the patterns arrived. It doesn't disappoint!<br />
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With a generous, roomy fit, gentle v-neck and optional back pleat and sleeve cuffs, the Breezeway Top is quick and simple to sew, with just enough detail to make it 'polished casual'.<br />
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I used our <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-made-in-lithuania-mid-weight-white">White Lithuanian Linen</a> - this one is unwashed which lowers the price (and the original fabric's environmental impact through energy and water use). I even skipped pre-washing (gasp!) because I knew the Breezeway Top was generously sized. You can see the fabric below with its flat finish and clearly separate fibres. In this photo I'm stitching over the underarm point twice to reinforce it.<br />
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We find these 'unwashed' linens tend to be overlooked in favour of the - admittedly prettier - gently rumpled pre-washed ones. I'm here to say give them a go! It doesn't take long at all for them to achieve a lovely lived-in feeling. They even ought to last longer because the fibres have not been partially broken down. We DO of course love our washed linen fabrics, but please don't be turned off by their smooth, flat siblings... they are in fact the very same cloth. (You can find more information about our linens, with some comparison images, in <a href="http://draperyfinefabrics.blogspot.com/2015/10/fabric-friday-linen.html">this blog post </a>from a few years back.)<br />
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Here's the finished top, after a wash and iron.<br />
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I chose the white linen because I thought it would make a great shop sample, both for the pattern and the fabric. My natural tendency would be to choose pattern or colour for myself. But once I'd tried this sample on I didn't want to take it off... and what the heck, it only takes one metre of linen, so I made another for me.<br />
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On my second version I decided to try the 'cap sleeve'. The finish will be familiar to those of you who have made the <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/box-top-pattern-by-frankie-ray">Frankie & Ray Box Top</a>: simple, clever and neat. Without the cuffs, it's more layerable for the approaching cooler weather. Here it is just off the machine, pre-wash:<br />
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The trickiest part of this pattern is probably finishing the v-neckline with bias tape. Don't be intimidated; the instructions are good and the end result is neat and secure (except when my shop-dwelling machine - decades overdue for a service poor thing - decided to skip stitches right at the point, argh). The second time I thought I could try applying the bias tape without pins until I got to the point, then using a pin to execute that manoeuvre on the spot. In short: nah, use all the pins, or you may be spending some quality time with your unpicker, like me.<br />
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A couple of steps I added to the neckline finish:<br />
- I staystitched* the raw edge to stabilise the neckline early on, because the binding isn't added until later in the construction and my linen could easily have stretched out.<br />
- I understitched** the bias to the neckline seam allowance before turning the whole thing to the inside, to help the bias roll in nicely and not peek around the outside. (I particularly wanted to do this because I only had cream bias tape, not white.)<br />
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<i>(<b>*Staystitch</b>: a line of straight stitching through a single layer of fabric, close to the cut edge, to help stop it from stretching out during handling. <b>**Understitch:</b> sew a facing to both layers of seam allowance where the facing is joined to the main garment, close to the stitching line. This helps produce 'turn of cloth' so the facing sits fully inside the garment and does not show from the outside.)</i><br />
<i><br /></i>And of course, what does it look like on a human?<br />
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<b>PATTERN:</b> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/frankie-ray-the-breezeway-top-pattern">The Breezeway Top by Frankie & Ray</a><br />
<b>FABRIC:</b> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-made-in-lithuania-mid-weight-white">100% linen, white 245gsm, 150cm wide,</a> 1 metre<br />
<b>SIZE:</b> S, no alterations (the fit is generous, the length just right on me at 5'3"/163cm) and yes, this sample now lives in-store so you can see it in person and try it on!<br />
<b>COMMENTS:</b> Like the <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/box-top-pattern-by-frankie-ray">Frankie & Ray Box Top</a>, I can see this being a great pattern to make again and again in different fabrics. It would be easy to embellish with patch pockets, a raw-edged bias finish neckline, shirt-tail hemline and other ideas. I could even imagine making one from a light woven wool as an easy throw-on top layer for winter. Jo, the designer, told us that the sleeve from her <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/frankie-and-ray-the-friday-shirt-pattern">Friday Shirt</a> pattern will fit this top so that would be a great option too - perhaps in a <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*flannel*">soft brushed cotton/flannel like these</a>.<br />
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Easy, breezy, comfy Breezeway!<br />
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- Jane & Fiona xx<br />
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<i><br /></i>Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-65952212457153155682019-03-07T15:52:00.000-08:002019-03-07T15:52:56.057-08:00Pattern Review: Papercut Ravine Dress in Hemp/SilkHeckin' fancy! We don't do a lot of 'fancy' here at The Drapery. But sometimes, occasion calls. And fabric and patterns answer.<br />
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I sing in a choir and as with many similar musical groups, <i>black</i> is the main requirement for performance wear. It's not a colour I wear otherwise, and I needed a new option for our concerts in the Adelaide Fringe.<br />
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We recently received these very special <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*hemp%20silk*">Hemp/Silk fabrics</a> (leftovers from a local designer/maker). I teamed the black one with the <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/papercut-patterns-ravine-dress">Ravine Dress pattern</a> from Papercut Patterns' latest 'Geo' collection. </div>
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Bias cut and backless, in slinky black... who even am I? It was quite out of my comfort zone but it somehow seemed promising.<br />
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On the roll this fabric has a slight pleated texture. A close look reveals intermittent shiny stripes, which we assume is the silk portion, and the matte part the hemp. I gave it a prewash and the pleating became more pronounced, and the width of the fabric therefore reduced. So much so, my pattern pieces wouldn't fit! What to do? It was almost like a knit in its ability to stretch and spring back.<br />
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I decided to give the fabric a very light, steamy press (not letting the full weight of the iron rest on the fabric) to stretch it back out, at least enough to fit my pattern pieces. Then I crossed my fingers and cut. My only deviation from the pattern was to cut two longer tie strips to go across the shoulders at the back, so I could tie a bow, instead of the single, optional narrow cross-piece. The bodice is the most unusual shaped pattern piece I've ever used, and this is the most unusual fabric I've ever worked with. Where would this adventure end?<br />
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Not fully considering the properties of bias cut, I was expecting that some pieces might end up with the pleats running different ways, highlighting the panel lines of the pattern. However the fabric layout ensures that the grain runs the same way all over. This means that the pleats wrap in a spiral around the dress, and the panel lines become a bit lost. I guess they're just a subtle feature in my Ravine Dress.<br />
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The assembly of the dress happens quite quickly. I opted for a simple zigzag seam finish. This fabric doesn't seem to fray much and I wanted to keep the seams as flexible and bulk-free as possible to allow the fabric pleats to do their springy, pleaty thing.<br />
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When I first tried the dress on, it was very long because the fabric had stretched out further. I didn't want to hem it shorter because this would mess with the panel lines. So I threw it in the wash to see if the pleats would work their shrinky magic again. They did! I also raised the underarm a bit with some simple taking in at the seams: about 3cm at the underarm pivot point, tapering to nothing either side, into the sleeve and bodice.<br />
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The neckline and back V are finished with self-bias, turned to the inside and topstitched. One side stretched out a bit more in the sewing and I had to unpick and adjust at the back until it sat evenly. Thankfully the same flexibility of the fabric that made it stretch out also made it easy to muck around in the back seams without distorting anywhere else.<br />
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Have a look below at the bias ties, which look a bit like macaroni!<br />
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I wouldn't normally choose a low V back pattern for myself, because of the implications for underwear (or lack thereof). However for my choir performances, the back view would rarely be seen, and I wore a fitted black singlet top underneath. I would like something a bit fancier but I was running very short on time. Initially I thought I'd need a full slip underneath in case the fabric was a bit sheer, but in its washed, pleated form it's really decently opaque, even under stage lights.<br />
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And here it is being worn.<br />
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Ultimately, whilst this dress is quite a style departure for me, I'm really pleased with it. It's cool and comfortable but also feels 'dressed up'. As a bonus, now the dress is finished it's definitely zero-iron. It can be gently folded or rolled in a bag and carried to a gig, then pulled out and it's ready to wear. I've washed it on a wool cycle using soap nuts (wool wash would also be good) and draped it horizontally over an indoor drying rack to prevent stretching.<br />
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This is a clever pattern and special fabric that's actually easy-care, and now I'm very tempted to make something - maybe more casual-fancy - with the white version, too.<br />
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The <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/papercut-patterns-ravine-dress">Ravine Dress</a> would also be gorgeous in a drapey fabric like our <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/collections/wovens/Viscose-&-Rayon">Tencels and Cupros</a>, or take on a more casual elegance in <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*washed%20linen*">washed linen </a>or a <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*double%20gauze*">double gauze</a>.<br />
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Maybe you've been tempted by a 'style departure' project, too. It's worth a try now and then!<br />
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- Jane & Fiona xx<br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-88030552184563290892019-02-25T19:21:00.001-08:002019-02-25T19:21:24.815-08:00Pattern review: the Frankie & Ray Anna KnickerKnickers! Undies! Dacks! Do you like buying them? I hate it. They're either ridiculously expensive or yawningly utilitarian, or even both.<br />
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The <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/anna-knicker-pattern-by-frankie-and-ray">Frankie & Ray Anna Knicker</a> has transformed my knicker drawer (actually the overflowing mess of a shelf in my tiny, cramped wardrobe... but let's for a minute pretend I have a pretty knicker drawer where everything is folded and perfumed with embroidered lavender sachets, shall we?).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NSR5CsE6b_s/XHSkfnmwI-I/AAAAAAAAHfw/V93HO0mHWf86nXOJvebtdhAgnsr_k7nkgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0759.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NSR5CsE6b_s/XHSkfnmwI-I/AAAAAAAAHfw/V93HO0mHWf86nXOJvebtdhAgnsr_k7nkgCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_0759.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna in 'Strawberry Humbug' linen (sold out)</td></tr>
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The bias cut woven knicker is your friend, friends! I have written about this <a href="https://draperyfinefabrics.blogspot.com/search/label/underwear">before</a>, using another good pattern. I find the Frankie and Ray Anna Knicker an even better fit for me. The waist is a little higher and more snug, keeping these right where they need to stay, all day. Plus you have the option of two waist heights and a French knicker version.<br />
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<b>Try any lightweight, natural fibre woven fabric</b><br />
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The Anna Knicker is a great scrap-buster or one to use for that adorable print that made you think 'I love it, but what can I <i>do</i> with it?'. I've made the Anna (lower waist, elastic leg) in Liberty Tana Lawn, cotton seersucker, voile, quilting cotton and linen, and they've all worked well. The linen may be a little less durable over wash & wear but it was from a scrap piece, so I'll enjoy them while I can! The gusset can be made out of the same fabric, which was a small revelation to me (why the heck not when it's all natural and breathable?) and I think it makes these all the prettier.<br />
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<b>Aren't they kind of puffy?</b><br />
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If you haven't tried woven knickers before, this is a perfectly reasonable thing to wonder.<br />
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/652340136/vtg-1980s-mccalls-7948-sewing-pattern?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=vintage&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=baby+bloomers+sewing+pattern&ref=sr_gallery-3-16&organic_search_click=1">(Image source</a>)<br />
I'm certainly not going to model the knickers for a blog post but you'll have to believe me when I say the bias cut allows woven fabric to be cut quite closely to your body shape and smoothly conform to your curves. There might not be knit spandex-style negative ease 'hugging' happening, but no, they're not going to look like baby bloomers!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top: finished. Bottom: in progress. <br />You might be able to see the untidy contrast stitching on the white elastic. I changed my thread colours for sewing the elastic on the second pair for a more pleasing result!</td></tr>
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<b>A note on elastic.</b><br />
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I was lucky enough to be a tester for Jo of Frankie & Ray when she was developing this pattern, which was over a year ago. So this means that I've been wearing my first versions of the Anna for over a year, and they're mostly still holding up well. But I used various picot-edge underwear elastics on them and some of that has not gone the distance. I replaced the waistband elastic on one pair, which was laborious, but I loved the fabric too much to let them go. It's well worth making sure you use quality elastic. If you have a supply of reliable decorative picot-edge knicker elastic, that's great. Otherwise I suggest you try an <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/elastic-extra-strong-non-twist-6mm-quarter-inch">'extra strength' 1/4 inch elastic</a> like this one we stock. <i>It's important to note that it is less stretchy than many other elastics, so you will need a bit more.</i> I found a ratio of about 77 - 80% of the waist and leg measurements to work well. If in doubt, make sure you hold the elastic around your leg and waist to find the right length for your own comfort.<br />
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It can take a bit of practice to gain confidence applying the narrow elastic around curved edges. I found it best to take it a very little bit at a time, holding the lightly stretched elastic firmly in place with my fingers (with the other hand normally guiding the fabric and elastic behind the presser foot, but it's holding the camera in this photo).<br />
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Give it a try. You could be whipping up your own Anna Knickers in no time!<br />
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<b>PATTERN:</b> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/anna-knicker-pattern-by-frankie-and-ray">The Anna Knicker by Frankie and Ray</a><br />
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<b>SIZE:</b> Luscious (X-Small, Small, Medium, Luscious, X-Luscious, XX-Luscious)<br />
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<b>FABRIC:</b> Various remnants, scraps and small cuts in lightweight cotton and linen<br />
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<b>NOTIONS:</b> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/elastic-extra-strong-non-twist-6mm-quarter-inch">1/4 inch elastic, Extra Strong Non-Twist</a><br />
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<b>NOTES:</b> Read elastic advice, above. A lovely pattern for comfy, stay-put knickers in all the pretty and fun woven fabrics!<br />
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- Jane & Fiona xx<br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-13227123507492397292019-02-20T19:51:00.000-08:002019-02-20T19:51:20.605-08:00Pattern Review: Pattern Fantastique Calyx Smock<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hc_fEVNgOoo/XG4OOJmpWgI/AAAAAAAAAn8/fRWzdQjXlNAzdhWhd9SwGvIY0O8SDkemACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_4661.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1489" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hc_fEVNgOoo/XG4OOJmpWgI/AAAAAAAAAn8/fRWzdQjXlNAzdhWhd9SwGvIY0O8SDkemACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_4661.jpeg" width="592" /></a></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When <a href="https://www.patternfantastique.com/">Pattern Fantastique</a> released the Calyx pattern late last year, I suspected it would be only a matter of time before one passed through my sewing machine. So tempting were its nice deep hem facing, raglan sleeves and loose, heat-wave friendly cut. Another PF pattern, the <a href="http://draperyfinefabrics.blogspot.com/2016/10/spring-tops-pattern-fantastique-aeolian.html">Aeolian</a>, has been a firm favourite of mine (ahem, 6 and counting…) and so the Calyx called as an appealing alternative.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the front.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Inspired by Nita Jane (owner of PF) and her talk of a denim Calyx for layering, I chose to make this version in some of our 6oz washed cotton denim. It’s a lightweight fabric that has good drape but is still quite sturdy. Certainly not the floaty tencel I had originally thought I might make this in, but I guess that leaves options for next time! And there will be a next time. When I first saw this pattern I could only imagine it being made up in something super lightweight & very drapery (tencel, washed linen, cupro) because of all the gathering at the neckline. But NJ encourages the use of different weights of fabric from the floaty to not so floaty (corduroy!) Somehow, the cleverly drafted proportions of the Calyx seem to make this pattern work in a variety of fabrics, despite all that gathery volume.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the rear.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I sewed size 12, even though my bust measurements put me closer to the 14. This is a great fit, and there’s still loads of ease. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Calyx comes with a bunch of different variations: top and dress lengths (with in seam pockets), a couple of sleeve lengths, optional cuffs and faced or turned hem. I opted for the short sleeved top.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IpKnwn-wzEo/XG4OkxP4hoI/AAAAAAAAAoQ/yicQINkmqVsgrOJYuof8VnbMDznJ_QE6QCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_4698.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IpKnwn-wzEo/XG4OkxP4hoI/AAAAAAAAAoQ/yicQINkmqVsgrOJYuof8VnbMDznJ_QE6QCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_4698.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tie back and that nice wide facing.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Construction</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Straightforward, and quick to sew! Nita Jane classes this pattern as intermediate, which seems a fair call.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I strayed from the (very thorough) instructions in two minor places. Firstly, I opted to stay stitch instead of using stay tape to stabilise the bias cut edge on the sleeves. The pattern suggests a particular kind of stay tape with built in basting thread (which sounds like rather an excellent product we reckon!) but I had none. Because this denim was already fairly stable, I didn’t think this was too much of a risk, but if I was going to make this with something very lightweight, I’d probably want to use stay tape or apply some lightweight interfacing to stabilise the seam. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The other place I strayed from the directions was when it came to applying the bias to the neckline. The instructions call for sewing the tie end of the neckline bias tape in kind of tube, then turning them inside out, which would give a lovely clean finish. But, because denim, I just pre-folded & pressed the ends of the ties rom the right side and topstitched over the whole lot. I’d already done some light topstitching on the raglan sleeves so felt that a little more wouldn’t look out of place.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Calyx also comes with an optional hem facing, which I cut out but at the last minute decided to go for the narrow turned hem instead. I love the look of the wide hem but made the call against any further volume the extra fabric on the hem would bring to the party since I was already using fairly substantial fabric.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I am so pleased with my Calyx top. It plays nicely with jeans so it’s the first thing I’m reaching for at the moment when we are lucky enough to score a cool day. I love the tie closure. And the back pieces fold back on themselves to make a great wide stitched-down facing which is such a pleasing detail, especially in a solid coloured fabric. All around thumbs up! </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/calyx-smock-pattern-by-pattern-fantastique">Calyx Smock pattern</a> can be found here, and our <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-cotton-6oz-denim-washed-finish">6oz washed cotton denim</a> is here.</span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">- </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fiona & Jane xx</span></div>
fionahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11526567415058476429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-83624337536057643992019-02-04T17:37:00.001-08:002019-02-04T17:46:47.297-08:00Grainline Hemlock Tee in Hemp & Organic Cotton JerseyWe're thrilled to have four colours of this beautiful <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*hemp%20organic%20cotton%20jersey*">55% Hemp 45% Organic Cotton Jersey</a> in store at the moment. Even better, it's very affordable (in the realm of hemp fabrics) and particularly sustainable because it's leftovers from a local maker.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Rose' colourway</td></tr>
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To demonstrate the loveliness of this knit fabric I whipped up a simple sleeveless t-shirt using the <a href="https://grainlinestudio.com/2016/05/31/the-hemlock-tee-free-pattern/">Hemlock Tee pattern by Grainline Studios</a>, a free downloadable pdf. And I really do mean 'whipped up'. A garment could barely be any simpler and this was done and dusted in between helping customers on a weekday morning in the shop.<br />
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The body of the pattern is quite long, and I shortened it by about 5cm.<br />
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I prewashed my fabric and it shrank in length (as can always be expected from a jersey) from 75cm to around 70cm. This was barely enough to cut the shortened tee from so I'd recommend using a little more! I also didn't have enough fabric to cut the neck band across the grain. Seeing as this fabric has a reasonable amount of stretch down its length as well as across its width, I defied all good knit sewing sense and cut my neckband the wrong way i.e. along the grain. (I can hear you gasping.) It worked fine! After a wash the neckband looks a tiny bit wavy/lumpy, which is probably the price I'm paying for this, and I'm totally fine with that.<br />
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To make the Hemlock sleeveless, I used the sleeve notches as my guides and folded in a small hem. When sewing the body sides together, I started on top of the ends of the hem (see pics below). I pressed the seams open.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Armhole hem folded and pinned.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sides sewn, starting by sewing over the end of the armhole hem.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottom of armhole from the outside, after pressing.</td></tr>
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I sewed this whole garment on a regular machine with a ballpoint needle, zigzag stitch and cotton thread, with the idea that the entire garment would ultimately be biodegradable. Just writing this I have realised that the clear elastic I used to stabilise the shoulder seams mucks up that intention, but it's close. Usually we would recommend a polyester thread for sewing knits, because its strength holds up better to the stretch of seams. The Hemlock is such a loose fit that none of the seams or hems will ever be under much stress so I am confident of them being quite durable. I didn't even use a walking foot, which can be helpful when sewing knits (because I didn't think of it) and this jersey behaved itself very nicely indeed.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottom hem, after a wash.</td></tr>
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And here's a hasty shop-selfie to show what it looks like on a human! It may be 'sleeveless' but the boxy shape gives a little cap-sleeve. (If you're after a pattern for this shape but in a woven fabric, we can recommend the <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/box-top-pattern-by-frankie-ray">Box Top by Frankie and Ray</a>.)<br />
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I'm happy to report that this tee is insanely soft and comfortable and I'm wearing it right now as I type. We're not sure how much of <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*hemp%20organic%20cotton%20jersey*">this fabric</a> we'll be able to get hold of so if you're keen, don't leave it too long, okay?<br />
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Oh and a clever sewist on Facebook commented that this pattern also looks great with a pocket - I can just picture that, can't you? And it would mean even fewer scraps left over!<br />
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- Jane & Fiona xx<br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-48144756601603421512019-01-16T19:49:00.000-08:002019-05-14T21:23:40.721-07:00About racism (let's not beat about the bush).If you follow much of the online crafting community you will probably have come across a recent conversation about racism, which was sparked in the knitting community. We've followed, we've read, we've had our eyes opened and thought a lot. And we've discussed whether it's our place, as owners of a tiny, independent fabric shop, to contribute to the conversation.<br />
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Our conclusion? It must be better to say something (and risk 'jumping on the bandwagon' or saying the wrong thing) than to say nothing at all. Active anti-racism is still, unfortunately, a necessity.<br />
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So, briefly, we wish to say that we wholeheartedly welcome people of all races and other diversities at The Drapery. We recognise our own white privilege, and that intent and effect can be entirely different. We are still learning about the forms white privilege takes and the way it affects others. Please let us know when and how we can do better.<br />
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- Jane & Fiona xxJanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-26913893071158264962018-12-06T16:57:00.000-08:002018-12-06T16:57:22.260-08:00Pattern Review: Papercut Patterns Palisade PantsThis is our second blogged garment from the new Papercut Patterns collection called 'Geo'. It's full of things we want to sew! (If you missed Fiona's writeup of the <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/papercut-patterns-pinnacle-top-sweater" target="_blank">Pinnacle Top</a> you can find it <a href="https://draperyfinefabrics.blogspot.com/2018/11/pattern-review-papercut-pinnacle-top.html" target="_blank">here</a>.)<br />
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As the weather has warmed up I've started to wonder whether I need some 'pants that are not jeans' in my life. Something a bit lighter, a bit looser. What tipped me over the edge with the <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/papercut-patterns-palisade-pants" target="_blank">Papercut Palisade Pants</a> pattern was of course those pockets!<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-10pPVcw7ytg/XAnCTfHtEfI/AAAAAAAAHdI/cDPqjqt-C0Aki70whNWuoKJ6JnI-xQ4FwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1761_900x.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-10pPVcw7ytg/XAnCTfHtEfI/AAAAAAAAHdI/cDPqjqt-C0Aki70whNWuoKJ6JnI-xQ4FwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_1761_900x.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The pattern description:<br />
<i><span style="background-color: white; color: #111111; font-family: "lato"; font-size: 15px;">"A staple pant to have in your wardrobe for every season. The centre front and back seams on the leg replace the side seam for a streamline look. Detail cross-over pockets span the side panel. Elasticated waistband with a flat piece at front and a faux fly. Comfort is key with these pants. Two length options, pants or shorts. Fabrics: </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #111111; font-family: "lato"; font-size: 15px;">Mid weight woven fabric. Could be made out of pretty much anything. Cotton, linen, silk, chambray, rayon. Your creativity is the limit!"</span></i><br />
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For my first try I chose some brown-ish cotton chambray ('Rhinoceros'). I measured between the M and L sizes so went with the L. These were my muslin / handy-dandy shop sample.<br />
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The fit is predictably imperfect for pants-with-no-muslin, but reflective of my 163cm height, short waist and measuring in-between sizes. If you're taller than me and measure accurately at one size I think you may find the Palisade Pants a pretty good fit!</div>
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These were quite promising and I was still so enamoured of the pockets that within a couple of days I had made some pattern adjustments and was well into a second pair.<br />
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Alterations (which sound like a lot but largely amounted to sizing down and lowering the front waistband):<br />
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<ul>
<li>Trimmed the waist edge of the front and side panels, tapering from about 1" at centre front to nothing at the back of the side panels.</li>
<li>Trimmed about 1/2" off the inseam from crotch point, tapering down to notch on front and back panels, to raise the crotch a little.</li>
<li>Sewed everything except the pocket facing with 5/8" seam allowance instead of 3/8" to slim a little all around.</li>
<li>Shortened the legs through the shorts cutoff line. </li>
<li>Omitted interfacing on the faux fly.</li>
<li>Added a couple of lines of topstitching around the elastic portion of the waistband to stop the elastic from rolling.</li>
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Et voila.<br />
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Please note that above, these are fresh off the clothesline and ironed. They're snug in this photo, but the fabric has definite 'give' within a short time of moving about. See more accurate rear fit pic below.</div>
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I'm completely delighted with these Palisade Pants and I've worn them a lot already. For me, pants fitting is a process of making a 'close enough' wearable version of a pattern, then allowing a good amount of wear to inform tweaks for my next pair. So... for my next Palisades? I want to adjust my pattern for a bit more bum-room (using the invaluable Closet Case Patterns free pants fitting download!) so that I can bend and sit without revealing more than intended. For a breezy summer pair of pants I would need to loosen the ankle and calf a smidge to allow for roll-up potential.<br />
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And let's see a bit more of that pocket so we don't end on a rear-view photo....<br />
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As with many Papercut patterns, a variety of fabrics can be used for a great variation in final garment. Our drapey <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/collections/wovens/Viscose-&-Rayon" target="_blank">Cupros, Tencels, Modals and blends</a> would be dreamily fluid and light for summer, while <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/collections/wovens/100%25-Linen" target="_blank">linen</a> is our most breathable and moisture-wicking fabric for the heat. <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*denim*" target="_blank">Denim</a> and <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*chambray*" target="_blank">chambray</a> are trans-seasonal classics and we're picturing chunky <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*corduroy*" target="_blank">cotton corduroy</a> Palisades for next winter. <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/collections/wovens/Mid-Heavy-Weight-Hemp-&-Organic" target="_blank">Hemp/organic cotton wovens</a> are durable and will age beautifully. As one of our clever customers did, you could use a contrast on the inside pocket panel to highlight the crossover detail.<br />
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<b>PATTERN:</b> <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/papercut-patterns-palisade-pants" target="_blank">Palisade Pants by Papercut Patterns</a><br />
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<b>FABRIC:</b> Rhinoceros 100% cotton chambray, Chestnut <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*textured%20twill*" target="_blank">Japanese linen/cotton Textured Twill</a> (meterage as per pattern recommendations for size/width - I found estimates very accurate and cutting from 110cm wide fabric pleasingly low waste).<br />
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<b>SIZE:</b> First one L, second one adjusted, similar to M dimensions.<br />
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<b>ALTERATIONS:</b> Narrowed all over, shortened crotch, front waist & legs.<br />
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<b>COMMENTS: </b>The flat front, tapered leg and fabulous pockets elevate the Palisade Pants way beyond a simple pull-on design, but they're still comfortable and sew up rewardingly quickly. The waist is fairly high-rise, particularly at the front. If you think you may have to adjust this for your own shape, we highly recommend a muslin (very wise with any pants pattern).<br />
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So that's a great big thumbs up from us for this pattern. What do you think?<br />
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- Jane & Fiona xx<br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-67581649852843247052018-11-21T17:15:00.000-08:002018-11-21T17:15:21.198-08:00Pattern Review: Papercut Pinnacle Top<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We are feeling the love for all things <a href="https://papercutpatterns.com/">Papercut</a> lately. Their last pattern release was a cracker (the <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/kochki-kimono-by-papercut-patterns">Kochi Kimono</a> has become a firm favourite in these parts), and now their new collection Geo has made its way into our hot little hands. There is much to love in Geo (check our online shop under <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*papercut*">Papercut</a> for others, plus Jane is in the middle of sewing up another of the Geo patterns, so watch this space)… but for me, the Pinnacle Top immediately called my name.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pinnacle is a boxy top that can be made in a few different ways: either as a knit sweater or from woven fabric, each variation featuring those fantastic geometric seam lines down centre front. I’ve been on the look out for a loose, long sleeved woven top to wear with jeans for a while now, so Variation 2 with the higher neckline and pretty tie-back elbowed its way right to the top of my sewing queue.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Fabric choice </b></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This Pinnacle Top is made from “11pm”, a 100% washed linen in deepest navy and one of our lighter linens at 160gsm. I’m having quite the moment with this stuff, it’s incredibly soft and swishy with beautiful drape and suits the oversized boxiness of this top perfectly. Not so easy to capture in a photo (the curse of all dark tones)... but trust me, it's quite lush! Many of our <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/search?type=product&q=*washed%20linen*">washed linens</a> would work beautifully for this pattern, or a </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/50-tencel-50-linen-copper">tencel blend like this</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pinnacle’s non-standard pattern shapes (two triangles, two ‘body’ pieces plus some neck binding) make for really fun sewing. I admit to having a bit of a head-scratch when it came to sewing the two body pieces together at the centre front where all the seam points meet. I couldn’t get my head around the diagrams so pinned a couple of steps ahead in order to be sure I didn’t end up with a sleeve hem inadvertently sewn to a neckline. Seam ripping on delicate swishy dark fabric? No thanks!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I’d recommend some basting at this stage. Getting that centre-point seam to meet was tricky so basting saved the day. Once that seam is complete though, this top comes together very quickly: some stitching, some folding and turning right-side out… and somehow a top appears. This was a really refreshing change from standard set in/raglan sleeve construction.</span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The other thing I’d recommend is to handle your cut pieces with care, especially the small triangles. The directions didn’t stipulate any stay-stitching and I was concerned that the neckline in particular might stretch out. It didn’t, so probably a little overly cautious on my behalf, but I think if I was sewing this in a slinky </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">fabric again I'd do some stabilizing just to be sure.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">Papercut have categorised this as suitable for beginners, and whilst there is nothing complicated or time consuming, I’d definitely want some garment experience under my belt before I tackled this pattern.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After cutting out this in size M according to my measurements, I read that a lovely Instagram friend had just completed her first Pinnacle top. She also measured for the M, but had gone down two sizes to get her preferred fit. So I was expecting this to be oversized… and it is! Not a problem in this drapey light fabric, but next time (there will most definitely be a next time!) I’ll size down, especially for a less fluid fabric. </span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Measuring about 40cm from neck to hem, the Pinnacle is fairly cropped, perfect for high-waisted pants-wearers. For me, my mid-40s midriff and my jeans though, it’s a resounding no without something layered underneath, so I’ll need to try to lengthen the pattern for peak jeans + slouchy top goodness. Next time? I'm eyeing off some <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/japanese-yarn-dyed-cotton-linen-micro-stripe-shirting-spaced">fine striped linen/cotton</a> for this pattern. Can’t wait!</span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Papercut Pinnacle Pattern can be found <a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/papercut-patterns-pinnacle-top-sweater">here</a>.</span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">'11pm' 100% washed linen can be </span>found<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><a href="https://thedrapery.com.au/products/100-linen-washed-softened-lightweight-11pm">here</a><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">- Fiona & Jane xx</span></span></div>
fionahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11526567415058476429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-26293467867883105642018-09-11T18:26:00.000-07:002019-05-13T20:50:15.859-07:00Pattern review: Papercut Patterns Kochi Jacket in Nani Iro linenThe kimono-inspired jacket trend has been around a few years, and we're the first to admit we are not always first aboard the trend-train. Bt slowly, slowly, these things can sneak up and then lo and behold, there's a kimono-shaped hole in our wardrobes we never noticed before.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Papercut Kochi Jacket pattern line drawings</td></tr>
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Fiona first tried the <a href="https://www.thedrapery.com.au/product/papercut-kochi-kimono-printed-pattern" target="_blank">Kochi Jacket by Papercut Patterns</a> (released June 2017) in a 'wearable muslin' made from a variety of linen and light denim scraps. She decided the shape wasn't working for her and put it aside. (But she's currently working with another kimono-inspired pattern so stay tuned!) Then recently I needed to dress for a Japanese-themed dinner and borrowed Fiona's Kochi. What do you know, I loved it, and immediately wanted one of my own.<br />
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There are several variations in the Kochi pattern: with or without neck band, lining, patch pockets and tie closure. I made the simplest, most pared-down version which has just four pattern pieces: front, back, sleeve and neck band.<br />
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It comes together in almost no time. I like the look of it fastened simply at the front with a brooch.<br />
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The fabric I used is the divine <a href="https://www.thedrapery.com.au/product/nani-iro-100-linen-situation-black-silver-on-flax" target="_blank">Nani Iro linen 'Situation'</a>. It's a match made in heaven if I do say so myself. We have quite a few new season's Nani Iro linens in stock (see the <a href="https://www.thedrapery.com.au/category/nani-iro" target="_blank">Nani Iro section of the store here</a>) and they would all make the most beautiful Kochis.<br />
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Fabric requirements only specify 140-150cm fabric but the Kochi is entirely possible out of 110cm wide fabric. After laying the pattern out I cut 2.1m. There was about 5% shrinkage when I pre-washed the linen, and I had a bit of a panic when I thought I'd ended up short. But after a lot of 'pattern Tetris' I was very pleased to actually end up with about 20cm to spare. It took a lot of juggling and single-layer cutting (especially with a directional pattern) so beware! It's a fairly fabric-hungry beast with all that volume. If you'd like to play it on the safe side I'd recommend around 2.25m of 110cm wide fabric, possibly more for larger sizes.<br />
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One of the advantages of making a popular pattern when it's been released for a while is the number of reviews you can find on the internet, which help guide the making. Fiona read many reviews suggesting to size down, and made Size S. I was very happy with the fit of that and so also made that size.<br />
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<b>Notes:</b><br />
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<u>Seam finishes</u><br />
Looking around the web at other sewists' Kochis, I noticed some nice details and suggestions like bias binding all the raw edges, or increasing the seam allowance (which is 1cm) to make French seams easier to achieve. Either of these would be a nice touch, especially if you like to wear your Kochi like an open jacket, because seam finishes will be somewhat visible. After reading right through the instructions, I overlocked all raw edges except neckline before assembly, and turned the overlocked edge of the hem under again to hide it when I completed the sleeve and body hems.<br />
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<u>'Fusing' = fusible interfacing</u><br />
The instructions for the view I made said to cut strips of 'fusing' and attach to the hems of body and sleeves. I found this a little ambiguous, but yes it does mean you should use strips of fusible interfacing to stabilise the hems and give them a bit of structure. I feel this is a subtle but important part of the lovely shape of the Kochi, so don't skip this step. Our <a href="https://www.thedrapery.com.au/product/lightweight-woven-cotton-fusible-interfacing" target="_blank">lightweight cotton woven fusible interfacing</a> is ideal for this.<br />
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<u>Follow the order of construction</u><br />
I wanted to attach the neckband earlier but then I realised other parts needed finishing in (surprise!) the written order.<br />
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<u>It's ideal for dressing up jeans</u><br />
Been wearing jeans all day but need to go out and look presentable somewhere? Throw on a Kochi and instantly feel a bit fancy! And despite the amount of volume in those sleeves, they're cut the perfect length to not get in your way at all. So you can still do all your jeans-wearing practical things while feeling a bit fancy.<br />
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<b>Summary:</b><br />
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<b>PATTERN:</b> <a href="https://www.thedrapery.com.au/product/papercut-kochi-kimono-printed-pattern" target="_blank">Kochi Jacket by Papercut Patterns</a>, Variation 3<br />
<b>FABRIC:</b> <a href="https://www.thedrapery.com.au/products?search=situation" target="_blank">Nani Iro 'Situation'</a> 100% linen, 110cm wide, 2.1m<br />
<b>SIZE:</b> S, no alterations<br />
<b>COMMENTS:</b> The hardest part about this make was fitting all the pieces onto my fabric. With the different views and different fabrics you can use (pretty much anything woven!), the Kochi is a versatile pattern that could produce quite varied garments. Simply lovely.<br />
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- Jane & Fiona xx<br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-63600658573405226682018-08-20T17:40:00.001-07:002018-08-20T22:20:32.819-07:00Pattern Review: Closet Case Ginger Jeans<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">It's fair to say we are </span>in the<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> midst of a denim phase at the moment. Here we are blogging about jeans making again. Sewing your own jeans is a fair undertaking, what with all the top-stitching and hardware, not to mention the fitting... it’s time consuming. But at the end? You feel like you’ve unlocked a new sewing achievement. Even better? YOU NEVER NEED TO GO JEANS SHOPPING AGAIN.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">These jeans were started in my head a couple of years ago. I gathered together pattern and fabric then promptly decided that I really wasn’t much of a jeans wearer anyhow, so into the stash they both went.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Fast forward two years and I was becoming “jeans curious” again, missing the ease of a good pair of jeans in my wardrobe. So out came the pattern and fabric which had now marinated in my stash long enough for me to feel ok about using it for a wearable muslin. Jeans were on once more! Maybe I’d be a jeans-wearer after all? (And if not, I could use them in the shop as a sample, so nothing lost, except perhaps a fair whack of time). </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"><b>Fabric choice</b></span><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I used a 10oz black cotton denim with 2% lycra content from <a href="https://mrecht.com.au/">M Recht</a> - purchased over 2 years ago before we had found a good source of black stretch denim. Even though the pattern calls for at least 2% stretch, I suspect there's not quite enough stretch in these (actual stretch in stretch wovens seems to vary according to thread weight and type). I’d recommend you get your hands on a few stretch denims before making your fabric choice. We currently have both black and <a href="https://www.thedrapery.com.au/product/yarn-dyed-japanese-stretch-twill-tarragon">Tarragon</a> cotton/spandex stretch twills plus these <a href="https://www.thedrapery.com.au/product/japanese-stretch-denim-4-colours">coloured cotton blend stretch denims</a> (though the latter may be slightly too light for View A). Lining is a light cotton from the stash.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I decided on View A, stovepipe option with low rise. Fitting and sizing was always going to be a bit tricky for me, falling across 2 different sizes for hips and waist. (Does that make me apple shaped? An inverted triangle? Gah!) After much deliberation I chose the size to fit my waist, figuring that removing fabric to fit my hips would be easier than adding it at the waist. (Incidentally, the Cashmerette Ames jeans pattern (available in store) carries lots of different options to accommodate apple and pear shapes, I think that might be an interesting jeans pattern to try too). </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">black garments, so hard to photograph, and omnipresent dog/s not really helping to illustrate jeans, sorry!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Construction</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So much good stuff has been said about the Ginger jeans pattern, and I can see why. If you are at all teetering about making jeans, then this is a great pattern to start with. Heather Lou’s instructions are extremely clear, and there’s an <a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/ginger-jeans-sewalong/">excellent online sew-along</a> with great photos if you have any head scratching moments. The directions for the zip fly are the best I have ever come across. (I look forward to doing it again - seriously!)</span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Another thing about jeans making: you may think you need a significant amount of kit in order to get started, but that really isn’t the case. As a test to see if it was up to it, I sewed this pair entirely on my 1981 Bernina. I needed to flatten some of the bulkier seams with a hammer and use the hand wheel to push the needle through thicker layers, but it managed just fine. As far as using one machine goes, using the same colour topstitching thread as the construction thread helped because I didn’t have to change bobbins constantly, only needles and top thread. Next time I’d have two machines going (and probably an overlocker), but this was entirely doable just with a little bit of switching stitches, needles and thread (and making notes about tension settings etc along the way!) </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vDQLxCVyv_c/W3pP3LtLCgI/AAAAAAAAAmA/jTML40WJBisbyiR6DYmPBBMHWh9goXNVQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vDQLxCVyv_c/W3pP3LtLCgI/AAAAAAAAAmA/jTML40WJBisbyiR6DYmPBBMHWh9goXNVQCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_2041.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Made a cutting mistake, so the coin pocket ended up on the right hand side, oops. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We stock the very handy <a href="https://www.thedrapery.com.au/product/jeans-hardware-kit-by-closet-case-patterns">Closet Case Jeans hardware kits</a> at the shop. These are great, but - sewers of black jeans take note - that these contain only 7 inch BLUE zips. For the Ginger pattern, the length of the recommended zip differs according to not only which style you’re sewing (high or low rise) but also your size. I ended up using a 7 inch (black!) zipper when according to the pattern I should have used an 8 inch one. However, I still ended up cutting mine down by more than an inch, so don’t worry too much about sourcing the perfect length, at least for the low rise option. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The kits include rivets and jeans buttons too. It was a first time rivet install for me - and my only piece of advice is to follow the instructions. There really is a reason she recommends using a cast iron pan/steel base for these! Incidentally, I needed to cut my rivets down as the posts were on the long side (perhaps too much hammering down of seams?!) but some heavy garden snips did the trick.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">note broken rivets on table. use an anvil or cast iron pan, folks!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Before I started this project, I read a few pattern reviews and it seemed like almost every sewist raved with glowing enthusiasm about how their Ginger Jeans fit like a glove first time. Because of my measurements - no surprises - I wasn’t one of them. These have taken plenty of tweaking, and I still have a laundry list of adjustments for next time. The <a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/jean-fitting-adjustments-best-fitting-jeans/">fitting guide</a> on the Closet Case website is a brilliant resource that really takes the mystery out of the intimidating world of pants adjustments. On this pair I did a partial flat seat adjustment and a full calf adjustment. Despite my size deliberations, they were were also too big at the waist and in the leg - in part style preference (turns out I prefer a skinny leg to a stovepipe) and other part the reason why we make muslins. After taking out about an inch from each side seam from the hips down this pair is wearable with a belt to help rein in some of the excess at the waist.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5cjQiXCxUjs/W3pPmgm-C4I/AAAAAAAAAls/xzCR9yf_9rA_xahWwyguMGF-FUMjifLNQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1408" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5cjQiXCxUjs/W3pPmgm-C4I/AAAAAAAAAls/xzCR9yf_9rA_xahWwyguMGF-FUMjifLNQCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_1806.jpg" width="351" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Before waistband and adjustments. So baggy!</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VEV9reCs-TU/W3p1lLTzfaI/AAAAAAAAAmk/4D-bkUSUjBMXIU46xcbFOraqAs66RkNdgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1571" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VEV9reCs-TU/W3p1lLTzfaI/AAAAAAAAAmk/4D-bkUSUjBMXIU46xcbFOraqAs66RkNdgCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_2071.jpg" width="314" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After. A bit better.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pre-waistband and side adjustments, compared to a pair of rtw jeans (on the top)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The thing about jeans is that you can’t really fit them properly until the garment is quite advanced. By which time your investment is considerable and you are really wanting these puppies to WORK. I got these to the point of the side seams and then baste fitted them (I’d read this tip somewhere and it really helped). But, I also reckon subjecting your jeans to some good old wash and wear is the best way to really find out how they fit.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Aaaand, from the back. Looking super wrinkly without a belt to hitch them up!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Next time, I’ll do a proper flat seat adjustment and will be more generous with the wide calf adjustment (there are probably a few too many wrinkles around the knee). I’ll go down a size and sew the skinny leg option, adding about 1-1.5 inches to the low-rise. I’m also going to use the pocket stay option from version B because more, erm, stabilizing in that area can never be a bad thing! I’ll lift the back pockets and endeavour to put the coin pocket on the right side too, oops. So, yup, basically make a whole new pair of Gingers. That said, for a wearable muslin these will do - I’ll get plenty of wear out of them. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">It’s terrifically satisfying to get really stuck into a big </span>project like this and end up with something that looks like the real deal. I’ve learned a lot - not only about jeans adjustments but also about how I like to wear them. All artillery for next time. The idea that I can work toward making the perfectly fitting pair of jeans is, well, a bit thrilling… (but perhaps I need to get out more, ha!)</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The Closet Case Ginger Jeans pattern can be found <a href="https://www.thedrapery.com.au/product/ginger-jeans-pattern-by-closet-case">here</a>. </span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Fiona & Jane </span></span></div>
fionahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11526567415058476429noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050620469655885892.post-24458424266738009692018-08-02T20:20:00.000-07:002018-08-02T21:11:23.732-07:00Pattern Review - Merchant & Mills Francine Top<a href="http://www.thedrapery.com.au/product/merchant-and-mills-made-in-denim-patterns-4-options-ottoline-heroine-francine-clementine" target="_blank">Francine</a> is a top & dress pattern from British company Merchant & Mills' recently released <a href="http://www.thedrapery.com.au/product/merchant-and-mills-made-in-denim-patterns-4-options-ottoline-heroine-francine-clementine" target="_blank">Denim Collection</a>. It's a stylish and simple take on a workwear style, 'inspired by the fishermen of Brittany'.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fK5k6jkX_cM/W2O-rAA59WI/AAAAAAAAHZc/bQbP2txT5Sc9-jgykL3Pdh5SiAyAdzcFgCLcBGAs/s1600/francine_line.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="595" data-original-width="842" height="452" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fK5k6jkX_cM/W2O-rAA59WI/AAAAAAAAHZc/bQbP2txT5Sc9-jgykL3Pdh5SiAyAdzcFgCLcBGAs/s640/francine_line.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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For the purposes of a true-to-the-pattern shop sample I made a size 12 top with no alterations. </div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6M_8A2xCPrs/W2PIqMyVlAI/AAAAAAAAHZ4/D0IjlXZ9uAEvwQhirHOA6USw5H21kF-ogCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_7091.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6M_8A2xCPrs/W2PIqMyVlAI/AAAAAAAAHZ4/D0IjlXZ9uAEvwQhirHOA6USw5H21kF-ogCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_7091.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This size was chosen based on my previous experience with Merchant & Mills patterns, but my measurements would put me in a size 14. Not all Merchant & Mills patterns are quite so generous in ease, as I discovered! If I was making this specifically for my own wearing I'd have made a muslin first, so please bear in mind the fit comments below are not intended as criticisms of the pattern, but as observations that may be helpful to others who make it.</div>
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<b>The process</b><br />
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I find Merchant & Mills instructions to be quite good, but often a bit different to methods I'm used to. I don't mind this, and quite enjoy surrendering to the process, trusting in the instructions and usually learning along the way.<br />
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For example, the front neckline slit is staystitched on the bodice and facing separately, then each is snipped open, and the two not joined together until somewhat later. You get to sew the front collar edges and neckline slit all in one smooth line which is quite satisfying.<br />
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The collar is attached to facing and bodice necklines separately and you end up with a bunch of seam allowances pressed open and kind of floating about loose inside the collar edge. It seems fine for now but I do wonder how this would go through wash and wear. Might the seam allowances decide to move around and maybe fold the wrong way and make lumps? Hmmm.<br />
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A quirky feature of the Francine is the option to place the pocket on the outside or the inside. I didn't notice until I read the instructions, but the garment on the pattern cover has the pocket sewn on the inside. Perhaps this is a traditional 'fishermen of Brittany' feature but honestly I just find it a bit weird so I opted for an outside pocket!<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p6wTrhzhFYY/W2O8k8zMUWI/AAAAAAAAHYY/mgznNE--38YLW4h3Qrp8PaqV01FRmk2ogCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0704.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p6wTrhzhFYY/W2O8k8zMUWI/AAAAAAAAHYY/mgznNE--38YLW4h3Qrp8PaqV01FRmk2ogCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_0704.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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There's a lot of satisfying topstitching on this pattern and as per when I sewed my jeans, I set up a second machine for this because it requires special thread, needle and tension and it's done at many different stages of construction. It makes a relatively simple top take a bit longer to sew but the extra detail is what makes it special.<br />
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Everything came together nicely. There's minimal ease in the sleeve head, although it appears there's a bit at first because of the generous seam allowance.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fC3YlNFNYZc/W2O83EyvIBI/AAAAAAAAHYg/iW4Zr3pZ57MB-NaaOWMLGtQQdnAI3fyWgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0705.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fC3YlNFNYZc/W2O83EyvIBI/AAAAAAAAHYg/iW4Zr3pZ57MB-NaaOWMLGtQQdnAI3fyWgCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_0705.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I recommend pinning as close as possible to the actual stitching line, and having the sleeve side down towards the feed dogs of your machine as you sew, to help ease the curves together.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DnAbqnACYbM/W2O9C9xGrFI/AAAAAAAAHYk/jLLk9rJkYYQsFbClKbfk58mnvVzWc8NhQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DnAbqnACYbM/W2O9C9xGrFI/AAAAAAAAHYk/jLLk9rJkYYQsFbClKbfk58mnvVzWc8NhQCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_0706.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I'm not sure that I've really mastered the split side hem on any garment yet. I found the end result difficult to visualise so again just walked through the steps as instructed and it worked well enough. I added extra topstitching and then, later, a bartack along the top of the split because it looked to me like it needed a bit of reinforcement.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t0skelszYw4/W2O9S-tU_SI/AAAAAAAAHYs/5zsQ1MaLkk0DVw75Ja4vGSsQN-9HRCrFACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t0skelszYw4/W2O9S-tU_SI/AAAAAAAAHYs/5zsQ1MaLkk0DVw75Ja4vGSsQN-9HRCrFACLcBGAs/s400/IMG_0707.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>The fit</b><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xum_Z4GbOJU/W2O9gjfviQI/AAAAAAAAHY4/FhfyjPzdISAmiiQx3nuj3lwFp987len_QCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1888.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xum_Z4GbOJU/W2O9gjfviQI/AAAAAAAAHY4/FhfyjPzdISAmiiQx3nuj3lwFp987len_QCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_1888.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<u>Bust</u><br />
I'm used to Merchant & Mills patterns being on the generous side for fit so it came as a bit of a surprise to me that the Francine was quite snug across the bust, with a feeling of pulling my shoulders forward. (It has no darts so perhaps not so surprising really.) As mentioned above, my size per measurements is really a 14 so this would have provided me with more breathing room. However the shoulder width in the 12 fits me, so I would choose to do an FBA on this size.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kmGGARRg5xY/W2O9gAJxKTI/AAAAAAAAHY0/gKbSh-h0NDkg_NBOJaBAhuPMw1jdRXHAwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_1898.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1065" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kmGGARRg5xY/W2O9gAJxKTI/AAAAAAAAHY0/gKbSh-h0NDkg_NBOJaBAhuPMw1jdRXHAwCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_1898.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<u>Length</u><br />
Without an FBA the top rides up in front. Once corrected, it's possible I still might want this top a little bit longer. I like the length but this girl needs to move without flashing her belly.<br />
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<u>Sleeves</u><br />
These are certainly long enough. The shoulder sits nicely when my arms are by my sides. However, if I raise my arms the entire garment lifts... a lot. It's another case of high sleeve head and sleeve fitted in at a sharp angle, such as I experienced with the Papercut Patterns Skipper Tunic. I'm not sure if this is specific to my body shape, but for me at least, I will redraw the armscye and sleeve head from a favourite fitting pattern (Deer and Doe Aubepine) to give myself freedom of movement without indecent exposure!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sviXH5IZQDs/W2O94Z-aSDI/AAAAAAAAHZQ/AkJtrS_4Ndo4WozQTqM1Mlh0dkK0U8BMQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1399" data-original-width="1399" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sviXH5IZQDs/W2O94Z-aSDI/AAAAAAAAHZQ/AkJtrS_4Ndo4WozQTqM1Mlh0dkK0U8BMQCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_0717.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">poor quality photo for the sake of sewing information!</td></tr>
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<u>Overall</u><br />
I find the top a little bit of a struggle to extract myself from, around the shoulder area. Possibly an FBA will also help with this. Overall there seems to be significantly less wearing ease in this pattern than the other two Merchant & Mills dress patterns I've made (Factory Dress and now out of print Union Dress). I expected that the fit might be a bit like the Top 64 (I've tried on our shop sample size 12) which is also quite generous on me. However it's much more of a shirt-like fit than an overshirt, and it's a fair bit shorter.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3nMswRCFhF4/W2O9hK2A7gI/AAAAAAAAHZM/lIMQo0tXSJ4s_pgv2F4v9-tHzM3-PjN0gCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_1901.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3nMswRCFhF4/W2O9hK2A7gI/AAAAAAAAHZM/lIMQo0tXSJ4s_pgv2F4v9-tHzM3-PjN0gCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_1901.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">perhaps one day I will learn how to adjust something without a waist seam to fix that pooling in the back</td></tr>
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<b>IN SUMMARY</b><br />
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PATTERN<br />
<a href="http://www.thedrapery.com.au/product/merchant-and-mills-made-in-denim-patterns-4-options-ottoline-heroine-francine-clementine" target="_blank">Merchant & Mills Francine Top (& Dress)</a><br />
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FABRIC<br />
<a href="http://www.thedrapery.com.au/product/coloured-japanese-100-cotton-denim-twills" target="_blank">100% cotton Japanese Denim, 'Schist'</a>, 1.65m x 110cm wide (as usual with M&M patterns I found the fabric allowance accurate and pleasingly non-wasteful).<br />
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SIZE<br />
12<br />
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ADJUSTMENTS<br />
None for this sample, would add bust dart and change sleeve head/armscye for personal fit.<br />
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COMMENTS<br />
A very appealing style, more fitted and shirt-like than I was expecting. Versatile, because it works well in denim weight but I can also imagine it in a light cotton or linen with short sleeves - and also as a dress - for summer. Measure yourself carefully and if in doubt, make a muslin!<br />
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- Jane & Fiona xx<br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.com0