Are you familiar with the
Alabama Chanin books and distinctive style?
 |
Natalie Chanin's second book, available at The Drapery, $44.95 |
They're the creation of Natalie Chanin, who hails from, clearly, Alabama USA. Her signature style is hand-stitched garments made from organic cotton jersey, with various embellishments including reverse-applique and beading. You can buy her beautiful hand-made-in-the-USA ready-to-wear garments, at understandably substantial prices (
oh look here's one named for me), or you can read her books and tackle the projects yourself.
I've been wanting to try this for ages... oh you know, the never-ending project list? Anyhow the planets aligned and I had a go at a fitted top. I just used the most basic construction method and no embellishments since this was really just a test for fit. I used a double layer of fine cotton jersey that was a gift from a destashing friend.
It's not perfect but I'm rather liking it all the same! You can see it has a tendency to fall off my narrow, sloping shoulders, but I think I can remedy this by taking it in at the centre back seam. I already shortened it a bit at the shoulders. The four-panel construction means there is a lot of shaping, and in double-layer jersey, I feel more comfortable than I expected in a garment this fitted.

It's entirely hand-stitched, which doesn't take as long as you might imagine. It can be quite a soothing, meditative thing to do. I used Gutermann upholstery thread, and like to use a thimble, especially when working with up to 6 layers of fabric such as on these felled seams. Probably one of the most labour-intensive parts is simply the frequent re-threading of the needle. The thread is used double. A length no longer than your forearm is recommended to avoid tangles. A useful tip I read in Natalie Chanin's first book was to thread up a whole lot of needles before you start, so you can just pick up a new one each time and get right on with stitching. I'll definitely try that next time!
This pattern comes with multiple cut-off points that mean it can make a top, tunic, short or long dress and short or long skirt. (I believe there are patterns very similar to this in each of her books; this one was from her third book which I purchased some time ago.)
My top ended up a slightly odd length. I wanted to make sure it wasn't too short, and had plenty of fabric, so cut it quite a bit longer than the 'top' version. What I didn't think of then was that the seam construction means you can't really just chop it off at the bottom without a lot of re-stitching. In any case I quite like this length with my Grainline Moss skirts.
At The Drapery we have a selection of organic cotton knits - most Australian-made - that are ideal for the Alabama Chanin style. They are light, pure cotton (no spandex) and quite stable.
 |
Top to bottom: Chocolate, Muted Donkey, Grey Marle, Navy, Kelp. |
So far, this is feeling a bit addictive. I'm now working on a skirt from the same pattern, and aim to make another top with a few fitting adjustments. The fabric I used on this first garment probably has a bit more stretch to it than the fabrics we have in the shop, so I need to try fitting with the 'proper' fabric. Then when I feel that's right I would love to make a dress with embellishments. Maybe it will be a nice winter-by-the-fire project this year? And a wrap would be nice... and the wrist-warmers... and a long skirt....
- Jane & Fiona xx